Gràcia

Neighborhood · GràciaBarcelona,Spain

A separate town until 1897, now the Barcelona quarter of bending lanes and linked squares, whose residents roof their own streets by hand each August.

Gràcia is where Barcelona's grid gives up. Walk north out of the Eixample and the chamfered corners stop, streets narrow to the width of one car, and balconies almost touch overhead. Every few minutes the walls open into another square — Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia under its clock tower, Plaça del Sol, Plaça del Diamant — each ringed with terrace tables under plane trees. The sound is chairs scraping, children, Catalan. The lanes bend because they follow torrents, the seasonal streams that once ran off the hills. This was a separate town until 1897, one of the largest in Catalonia, built on mills, small workshops and the low houses their workers lived in. Its name comes from a Carmelite convent founded among fields in 1626, and Torrent de l'Olla and Torrent de les Flors keep the Catalan word for watercourse in their street names. It is now one of the densest quarters in the city, with small shops in old workshop doorways. For one week each August the residents close their own streets and hang handmade ceilings over them.

Worth knowing

Good to know

Look up along Gran de Gràcia — several ornate facades on the old main street are attributed to Francesc Berenguer, Gaudí's right hand, who never took his degree and signed nothing.
Plaça del Sol is two different squares — mornings belong to prams and old men; after midnight it is the loudest place in the district. Pick the one you came for.
Carrer Verdi's cinemas run films in the original language — subtitled, in a country that dubs almost everything. The audience is mostly neighbours, and the queue forms on the pavement.
Catalan is the everyday language of the street here — a bon dia on the way into a shop registers, and nobody minds if the rest of the exchange happens in Spanish.
Terrace tables are held, not turned over — nobody will hurry you off one, and nobody will free one for you. The squares are Gràcia's living rooms; the next is three minutes away.

Things to do

1
Chain the squares in one loop
Start under the clock tower in Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia, then walk five minutes to Plaça del Diamant. Cut across to Plaça de la Virreina with its church front, and finish in Plaça del Sol as the light goes. One drink per square, and let the walking between them stay short and aimless.
2
Walk the decorated streets before noon
In mid-August come in the morning, before the crowds and while committees are still up on ladders. Look straight up: the canopy is built to be read from below. Walk Verdi, then cut to Fraternitat and Progrés, and feel each street change theme completely at the corner.
3
Sit down for the Sunday vermut
Around midday on a Sunday, order vermut standing at an old bodega counter, where it costs less than the terrace outside. It comes dark and sweet over ice with an olive, a slice of orange and a soda siphon beside it. Ask them to fill a bottle to carry out.