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Giant's Causeway

Giant's Causeway

Rock FormationsUnited KingdomNorthern Ireland,United Kingdom

Forty thousand basalt columns on a Northern Irish headland, most of them hexagons, walked out on where they step down into the Atlantic.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

Autumn thins the crowds and the seabirds have flown. The low sun still turns the wet basalt from grey to gold, and the first Atlantic swells bring big seas back. Days shorten fast, and the centre and café stay open.



Year-round The 40,000 basalt columns stand exposed on the shore in every season and any weather; only the daylight, the crowds and the seabirds change.

The Giant's Causeway is a headland on the north coast of Northern Ireland where some forty thousand columns of black basalt, most of them hexagons, step down out of the cliffs into the Atlantic, fitted together so neatly that they look laid by hand. They were made by cooling. Around sixty million years ago lava flooded this coast and hardened slowly from the top down, shrinking as it cooled and cracking into columns the way drying mud cracks into plates; the pattern is six-sided because that is how shrinking rock most evenly splits, though some columns have four, five, seven or even eight sides. The tops are worn flat, and you walk out across them from column to column down the great apron where it slopes into the sea, the waves breaking over the lowest stones. Among the thousands, generations of visitors have found shapes and named them: the Giant's Boot, the Organ, the Wishing Chair, the Camel. The legend is older than the science. Finn McCool, the Irish giant, built the causeway across the sea to fight the Scottish giant Benandonner, then saw how big his rival really was and fled home, and the road was torn up behind him; the matching columns at Fingal's Cave on the Scottish island of Staffa are, in the story, the other end. For a long time scholars argued about the columns too, some insisting the sea had built them, others that they had grown like crystals, until the volcanic answer won. The cliff path above the stones gives the view the shore hides: from up there the whole formation reads as a single honeycomb sheet ringed by an amphitheatre of taller columns. From spring into summer fulmars, kittiwakes and guillemots nest on the ledges above, and black guillemots bob in the coves at the foot. The last hour before dark, once the coaches have pulled away, is when the stones go copper and the shore empties, and the causeway looks most like what the story says it is.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Beat the coaches by coming early or late — the site fills from late morning to mid-afternoon, so the first and last hours of the day leave the stones nearly to yourself.
  • The basalt turns treacherous when wet — and on this coast it usually is, so wear boots with real grip and take care on the low stones the waves still reach.
  • You can walk to the stones for free — it is about a kilometre down from the clifftop visitor centre, or a paid minibus shuttles those who would rather not make the climb back up.
  • Watch the cliffs for nesting seabirds — fulmars, kittiwakes and guillemots crowd the ledges above the causeway from spring into summer, and black guillemots bob in the coves at its foot.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk out across the hexagonal stones

    Walk out across the hexagonal stones

    Step from column to column down the great basalt apron where it slopes into the sea, the tops worn flat and fitted together like a cracked pavement. Up close you can trace the tight joints between them, no two pillars quite the same width. Go right down to the waterline: on a rough day the swell bursts white over the outer columns, booms into the gaps and drains back through them with a hiss.

  2. 2

    Follow the cliff path above the causeway

    Follow the cliff path above the causeway

    Climb the trail along the green headland for the view the shoreline hides: from above, the whole formation reads as a single honeycomb sheet ringed by an amphitheatre of taller columns. Higher stretches look down on the coves and the sea foaming far below.

  3. 3

    Find the named stones among the columns

    Find the named stones among the columns

    Pick out the shapes that generations of visitors have named in the basalt. They all come from the legend of Finn McCool, the giant said to have built the causeway. The Camel is his horse turned to stone, and the Boot is the one he is said to have lost as he ran. The Loom is where he supposedly wove his clothes, and the Wishing Chair is a seat of columns worn smooth by everyone who has stopped to rest in it.

  4. 4

    Stay past the last coach for the copper hour

    Stay past the last coach for the copper hour

    Time your walk down to the stones for the final hour before dark, once the day-trippers' coaches have pulled away and the shore empties out. Settle in below the Giant's Organ, the tall bank of pillars, and let the raking low sun do its work as the basalt warms from grey to copper. The green headland behind the columns catches fire before the colour bleeds into the sea.

Watch

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