Grand Anse Beach is two and a half kilometres of pale sand on the sheltered west coast of Grenada, in the parish of Saint George, below the red roofs of the capital stacked on the headland at its far end, facing open sea at sunset, and it is the island's beach, walked end to end on firm sand, drunk on at the spice market with a rum punch grated with nutmeg and left from by the whale boats that lift their passengers straight off the sand. The beach is protected from the Atlantic by the island, so everything on this coast is built facing east and the water is calm, turquoise over sand and shelving gently, with the hotels set back behind the trees in a line that the law keeps low; the vendors at the Craft and Spice Market at the beach's northern end grate fresh nutmeg over the rum punch, Grenada's own garnish from the spice the island lives on, and the walk runs the full crescent to Quarantine Point at the southern end and back, with the road above the bay giving the whole arc at once, white sand, turquoise shallows and the roofs of St George's. Hurricane Ivan in 2004 came the wrong way, from the west, and wrecked the sheltered coast that had never been hit.
The seabed off the leeward coast drops away steeply, so animals that need open-ocean depths live close to the shore, and the boats run out from the sand to sperm and pilot whales that stay all year and to the humpbacks crossing on their winter passage from January to April, with dolphins on most trips. Once a year the fishing villages bring their own boats to this beach and race them at the Grenada Sailing Festival, five-metre hulls cut from local hardwood and rigged with bamboo masts, launched off the sand. The bus from the capital runs the length of the beach road, and the water is warm all year. Grand Anse is the beach a capital looks down on, and the whales are a boat ride off it.