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Pigeon Point

Pigeon Point

Beaches & CovesTrinidad and TobagoTobago, Crown Point,Trinidad and Tobago

A thatched jetty on Tobago walking out over water shallow enough to show the boats' shadows on the sand, with a waist-deep pool far offshore.

September·Quiet month

Jul–Nov

Runoff from the Orinoco river turns the sea green and cuts visibility on the reef, and October–November are the wettest months. Nothing shuts, though: the park, the thatched jetty and the glass-bottom boats run all year, and in July–August the park fills with local families.



Year-round The thatched jetty, white sand and waist-deep leeward shallows are here every month; only the water's clarity and the trade wind swing with the season.

Pigeon Point is a beach at the southwestern tip of Tobago, in Trinidad and Tobago, whose thatched jetty walking out over water shallow enough to show the boats' shadows on the sand is the island's postcard, and from it glass-bottom boats run out over Buccoo Reef to the Nylon Pool, a waist-deep sandbank a kilometre offshore. The point is a coral peninsula that a coconut plantation once worked, and the palms leaning over the sand are what is left of the estate; behind it lies Bon Accord lagoon, a mangrove-fringed shallow where much of the reef's fish life grows up before it reaches the coral, and off it Buccoo Reef, the largest in Tobago, protected since 1973. The flat-bottomed boats leave the jetty and cross the reef flats with the sea fans, brain coral and parrotfish sliding past beneath the glass panel, and then cut their engines out beyond the reef, where the passengers step over the side into the Nylon Pool. The pool is a sandbank in the middle of the sea, named by Princess Margaret in 1962 for water as clear as a nylon stocking, and the boat crews will say that bathing in it takes ten years off; the coast is a low green line behind and the swell breaks on the reef beyond. From December to June the trade wind runs steadily across the bay, and the shallow water off the point is where the island's kitesurfing and windsurfing schools set up, on flat water inside the reef. In the dry months the sea holds still and glass-clear over the reef, and from July the outflow of the Orinoco drifts north and greens it. Towards the end of the afternoon the reef boats come back to their moorings, the sky turns orange and the thatched roof of the jetty drops to a black outline on the water. Pigeon Point is a jetty over clear water, and the pool it sails to has no shore.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take one of the first reef boats out — the bay is flattest before the trade wind builds through the afternoon, and the Nylon Pool is far emptier than it will be by noon.
  • The Nylon Pool is a sandbar, not a pool — no shade, nothing to hold on to, and no depth to dive into; boats normally stop there for about half an hour.
  • From December to June the trade wind is the point's other personality — it brings the kitesurfers, but it also chops the swimming water up from late morning on, so swim early.
  • The jetty end of the beach fills first, since the reef boats and tour groups gather there all morning; walk the sand toward the point and the crowd thins within a few minutes.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Stand waist-deep in the Nylon Pool

    Stand waist-deep in the Nylon Pool

    The boat cuts its engine out beyond the reef and you step over the side into water that only reaches your waist, with open sea on every side and the coast a low green line behind you. The bottom is soft white coral sand, and the water sits warmer and stiller than the sea you left.

  2. 2

    Cross Buccoo Reef in a glass-bottom boat

    Cross Buccoo Reef in a glass-bottom boat

    Flat-bottomed boats run from the jetty out over the reef flats, and the coral, sea fans and fish slide past beneath the glass panel at your feet. Nobody walks on the reef any more — the boats anchor over sand, and you snorkel above the coral instead of standing on it.

  3. 3

    Watch the thatched jetty go to silhouette

    Watch the thatched jetty go to silhouette

    Towards the end of the afternoon the reef boats come back to their moorings, the sky over the bay turns orange, and the jetty's thatched roof drops to a black outline on the water. The wind usually falls with the sun, and the bay goes glassy for it.

  4. 4

    Follow the old estate's palms to the point

    Follow the old estate's palms to the point

    The coconut palms leaning over the sand are what is left of the plantation that once worked this peninsula. Walk away from the jetty and the beach narrows toward the point, the vendors fall behind you, and Bon Accord Lagoon opens quietly through the trees on the other side.

  5. 5

    Learn to kitesurf on the flat water off the point

    From December to June the trade wind runs steadily across the bay, and the shallow, unbroken water off the point is where Tobago's kite and windsurf schools set up. You can stand up in it hundreds of metres out, which makes it a forgiving place to fall over and start again.

Watch

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