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Great Ķemeri Bog

Great Ķemeri Bog

Wetlands & DeltasĶemeri National Park, Jūrmala, Latvia
August·Edge of season

Jul–Aug

The quiet shoulder between the two great shows: July is warm, green and buggy at dawn, the cotton grass gone and the heather not yet lit — then through August the heather takes the same ground and runs it purple, the herald of autumn.



Year-round The peat-brown pools, dwarf pines and boardwalk are here every day, free and open around the clock and never cleared of snow — but the pools freeze in winter and mosquitoes own the summer dawns.

The Great Ķemeri Bog is made of plants that never finished rotting. Rain falling here has nowhere to go: ridges of old coastal dunes wall off the sea, and dense clay and dolomite below stop it draining away. The plain stays waterlogged, so dead moss piles up faster than it can rot. Over some 8,000 years that moss has built into a layer of peat lying over the sand, 4.8 metres deep on average and eight metres at its deepest. It covers 6,192 hectares, the fifth largest raised bog in Latvia, its surface scattered with hundreds of dark pools, tea-brown with peat. Between them stand pines no taller than you are, many over a century old, kept small by ground that is acidic and almost without nutrients. That same airless ground gave Ķemeri its other export: groundwater dissolves sulphate from gypsum below, and where it meets buried plant matter, bacteria turn it into hydrogen sulphide. That is the sulphur water that paid for the town's first bathhouse in 1838. A boardwalk runs out from the forest edge: a 1.4-kilometre loop, or a 3.4-kilometre one reaching a tower where the bog opens flat to the horizon. Out on the planks the air smells of wild rosemary and the water sits just beneath the boards. The pools are so still that they mirror the sky almost exactly, which makes the far edge of the bog hard to pick out. Wood sandpipers and golden plovers nest out here, because in Latvia they breed on raised bogs and almost nowhere else, and cranes and geese cross overhead on passage. The bog came through the last century almost untouched; only its eastern edge was drained and cut for peat, until 1973. Those workings have since been re-wetted and replanted with sphagnum, and the waders are moving back in. Protected inside Ķemeri National Park since 1997, it is free and open around the clock, all year; the snow is never cleared, so in winter the boards are often yours alone.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come at first light and the bog is yours — the mist sits lowest in the first hour, and by mid-morning the narrow planks fill with walkers coming the other way.
  • The car park is paid and sits 800 metres short of the boardwalk — allow that walk each way, or ride the train to Ķemeri station and walk in from there.
  • The boards have no railing and turn greasy when wet or frosted — wear shoes that grip, and remember snow is never cleared here in winter.
  • Only the long 3.4 km loop reaches the tower — the short arc never gets there, and the flat panorama from the top is the one view the planks cannot give you.
  • Bring repellent from June to August — the standing water that makes the pools also breeds mosquitoes, and dawn and dusk, the best light, are their best hours too.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Step out onto 8,000 years of moss

    Step out onto 8,000 years of moss

    The planks carry you over ground that would swallow a boot to the knee — 1.4 kilometres on the short arc, 3.4 on the long one. The moss on either side is soaked through, and the air carries the sharp, resinous smell of wild rosemary.

  2. 2

    Climb the tower and count the pools

    Climb the tower and count the pools

    Halfway around the long loop a wooden tower lifts you above the pines. From the top you see the whole bog at once: hundreds of black pools spread over the flat moss, the boardwalk winding between them, and forest only as a distant rim.

  3. 3

    Look into one of the black bog pools

    Look into one of the black bog pools

    Crouch on the boards where a pool comes closest to the edge. The water is stained tea-brown by peat and carries almost no nutrients, which is why it stays this dark and this still. On a windless morning it reflects the clouds almost perfectly, and the low bank is the only line separating the water from the sky.

  4. 4

    Pick the waders out of the open moss

    Pick the waders out of the open moss

    Wood sandpipers and European golden plovers nest out on the open moss. In Latvia these two birds breed on raised bogs and almost nowhere else. Scan the flat ground beyond the planks early, and listen: the plover's thin whistle carries a long way over moss.

  5. 5

    Find the sundew that eats insects

    Find the sundew that eats insects

    Look down at the wet moss right beside the boards for a rosette the size of a coin, red-haired and glistening. The round-leaved sundew cannot get nitrogen from this starved ground, so it takes it from the flies that stick to those hairs.

Watch

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