Ventas rumba is barely two metres high, yet no waterfall in Europe is wider. The Venta pours over a ledge of Devonian dolomite about 249 metres across, narrowing to some 200 metres when the river runs low, while the drop itself runs only 1.6 to 2.2 metres. In the spring flood the water spreads across some 270 metres of rock. The fish are the reason to come. From early April until about the tenth of May, vimba — a silvery Baltic bream — gather below the step and hurl themselves at it, and in autumn salmon and sea trout follow. You watch a smooth brown sheet of water, and then a fish is simply in the air, wriggling.
The falls made the town. The step blocked the medieval trade route down the Venta, so boats stopped here, and Kuldīga grew up beside the obstacle. Then a duke turned the obstacle into a machine. Around 1640 Jacob Kettler of Courland had channels cut into the bedrock along the ledge and a hundred wicker baskets hung at the lip. Salmon that leapt at the falls and fell short were washed back into the traps. A good day took 80 to 100 fish, and Kuldīga became known as the town where salmon were caught in the air. The duke's work is still underfoot. His channels survive as grooves worn into the dolomite, exposed when the summer river drops. Nobody collects the failures now, because fishing is closed here through the whole spawning run. So what you watch at the lip is the attempt itself, over and over, with nothing waiting at the bottom.