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Dolmabahçe Palace

Dolmabahçe Palace

Istanbul City Guide
Palace · BeşiktaşIstanbul, Türkiye

Dolmabahçe took so much gold to build that historians count it among the reasons the Ottoman treasury ran dry. Sultan Abdülmecid commissioned it in the 1840s to replace old Topkapı, whose austere courtyards had begun to look provincial beside the palaces of Europe. The Armenian Balyan architects answered with over half a kilometre of pale stone along the Bosphorus — Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical rooms behind one facade, on ground whose name, "filled-in garden", recalls the shallow bay reclaimed centuries earlier to hold it. Inside, restraint disappears. Ceilings carry fourteen tons of gold leaf; a staircase climbs on balusters of cut Baccarat crystal; the domed Ceremonial Hall hangs one of the largest chandeliers in the world. You walk hall after hall past Hereke silk carpets, and in a plain bedroom near the end, a clock stands stopped at 9:05 — the minute Atatürk died here in 1938. Today the palace is a museum, its rooms kept furnished much as the last sultans left them, the gilding still doing exactly what it was built to do: overwhelm.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Look down as much as up — the parquet floors are inlaid from dozens of woods and change pattern room to room; most visitors march straight over some of the finest craftwork in the building.
  • The chandelier hall is where everyone bunches — the great crystal draws every visitor to the same spot, so hang back, let the crush pass, then take the smaller sea-facing salons briefly for yourself.
  • Don't walk past the clock tower — the ornate four-faced tower outside the Treasury Gate is a late Balyan work in its own right; most people photograph the palace and never notice its small sibling.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Read the facade from the water

    Read the facade from the water

    Board a Bosphorus ferry and watch the palace slide past on the European shore. From mid-channel the long white marble frontage, the ornate gates and the seaside railing line up as a single composition — the exact view the architects designed the building to be seen from.

  2. 2

    Stand beneath the great chandelier

    Stand beneath the great chandelier

    In the Ceremonial Hall, move to the centre of the floor and look straight up. Let your eye climb the tiers of crystal until the sheer mass registers, then notice how the dome, the balconies and the gilt columns were all shaped to frame this one hanging object.

  3. 3

    Stand in the room where Atatürk died

    Stand in the room where Atatürk died

    Near the end of the route you reach a plain bedroom, far simpler than the gilded halls before it. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk died here on 10 November 1938 at five past nine in the morning, and the clock in the room was stopped at that minute and never restarted. Let the group drift ahead and give it a quiet minute; every 10 November the whole country falls silent at exactly that time.

  4. 4

    Climb the crystal staircase

    Climb the crystal staircase

    Take the double-horseshoe Crystal Staircase slowly rather than in step with the crowd. Its balusters are cut Baccarat crystal, and under the glass skylight above you can watch the light move through them as you climb. This is the first grand space visitors reach, and it was built to impress them before they see a single hall.

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