Süleymaniye Mosque crowns Istanbul's Third Hill with a dome more than fifty metres up, and inside it is one huge, calm room. Light pours in through rows of windows, and the İznik tiles are used with a restraint that later mosques abandoned. Sinan built it for Suleiman the Magnificent and finished in 1557. He never meant the mosque to stand alone: colleges, a hospital, a caravanserai, a hammam and a public kitchen that fed the poor daily ring it as a self-contained quarter.
Look up for the ostrich eggs strung among the lamps, and for the small chamber above the main door where lamp smoke was collected and its soot scraped off to make ink. The garden behind holds the domed tombs of Suleiman and his wife Hurrem, and Sinan's own small tomb sits just outside the wall. It is still a working mosque. The back terrace gives one of the old city's widest views over the Golden Horn.