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Kitulo National Park

Kitulo National Park

Plateaus & HighlandsTanzaniaKitulo Plateau, Mbeya Region,Tanzania

The only national park in tropical Africa created for its flowers, 413 square kilometres of Tanzanian grassland that fills with wild orchids each December.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Oct

September–October stays dry and golden, the plateau's most accessible stretch — roads at their firmest for the 4x4 climb after the year's driest months. Blue swallows return late September; the flower show is still weeks off.



Year-round The grassland plateau at 2,600 m, the escarpment rim above Lake Nyasa and the Ndumbi falls stand all year — but its colour, its cold and the 4x4 road all swing with the season.

Kitulo National Park is the only national park in tropical Africa created for its flowers, 413 square kilometres of grassland on a plateau at 2,600 metres in the Mbeya region of the southern highlands of Tanzania, ringed by the Kipengere peaks, which fills with wild orchids and red-hot pokers each December, and it is walked on foot across a carpet that is mostly ankle-high, kneeling to see it, with waterfalls off the escarpment and frost on the grass at dawn in the dry season. The park was made in 2005 to save the orchids from the trade in chikanda, a firm sliceable cake of ground orchid tubers, peanuts and soda sold as a snack across Zambia and nicknamed African polony, which was stripping the plateau of millions of tubers a year; the rains from late November turn the grassland into a carpet of 45 kinds of terrestrial orchid with aloes, everlasting flowers and scarlet red-hot pokers threaded through wet grass, thickening through December and holding until the rains break in April, and the carpet has to be grazed, since left alone the grass would smother the flowers, so the cattle of the villages are part of the park. The Kipengere peaks cut the light early, and once they do the temperature drops fast, so that in the dry months the grass comes up white with frost. Streams draining the plateau spill over the escarpment lip, and the Ndumbi falls drop roughly a hundred metres into forest, walked to along the rim. Blue swallows, a bird down to a few thousand adults worldwide, arrive from about October and nest low in the wet grassland, hunting over the grass and dropping out of sight into it, and Denham's bustard displays in the same fields in the only population in the country; the forests on the plateau's edge held the kipunji, a monkey undescribed until 2005 that turned out to be its own genus. The park is reached by rough road from Mbeya with a ranger. Kitulo is a garden that a park was made for, and the cattle keep it a garden.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The way up is the "Hamsini na Saba" — a rough dirt road of fifty-seven hairpin bends climbing the Chimala escarpment. It needs a 4x4, and the rains that bring the flowers also grease it.
  • Take a park guide from the gate — the grassland is vast and trackless, and the nesting blue swallows and Denham's bustards keep to particular patches rather than the whole plateau.
  • Pack warm layers, not safari khaki — at 2,600 metres the mornings are cold and wet even in the flowering months, and a waterproof shell matters more than a sun hat.
  • Hike out to the escarpment rim — the plateau's edge falls away towards Lake Nyasa, and on clear afternoons the view opens over the lake and the forest below.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Kneel down to the ankle-high orchids

    Kneel down to the ankle-high orchids

    The famous carpet is mostly a few centimetres tall: single orchid stems, papery everlasting flowers and scarlet red-hot pokers threaded through wet grass. Walk slowly and forty-five kinds of terrestrial orchid resolve out of what looked like empty green. Come at first light, when low sun lights the silvery everlastings from behind and whole banks turn white-gold.

  2. 2

    Stand in the spray of the Ndumbi falls

    Stand in the spray of the Ndumbi falls

    Streams draining the plateau spill over the escarpment lip, and the Ndumbi falls drop roughly 100 metres into forest. On sunny afternoons the spray throws a rainbow across the plunge pool, and the air at the bottom is cold enough to make you back off. Orange red-hot poker spikes grow straight out of the wet rock at the water's edge.

  3. 3

    Wait for the cold to come down off the Kipengere

    Wait for the cold to come down off the Kipengere

    The Kipengere peaks cut the light early, and once they do the temperature drops fast — in the dry months the grass comes up white with frost by dawn. Nothing on the plateau throws light after dark, and with no trees and no ridge close by the sky runs down to the grass in every direction.

  4. 4

    Pick the blue swallows out of the wet grass

    Blue swallows hunt low over the wet grass and drop out of sight into it. Look for a long-tailed dark shape working a few metres above the sward, not a bird perched in the open. They are on the plateau from about October to April, and in the same fields you may put up a Denham's bustard — the country's only population lives here.

Watch

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