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Kurşunlu Waterfall

Kurşunlu Waterfall

WaterfallsAntalya, Türkiye
August·Quiet month

Jul–Sep

The plain bakes at 34°C and the falls thin to a trickle as wells pump groundwater to greenhouses upstream — flow hits its yearly low by summer's end. Yet the shaded gorge stays cool and packed, ~1,500 a day; nothing shuts, safari tours run year-round.



Year-round The travertine canyon, its seven pools and the hollow behind the falls are here year-round; only the flow and the autumn colour swing.

Kurşunlu Waterfall depends on a stream that the people upstream also depend on. The water rises at the Gelingöz spring four kilometres away, and the villages along that stretch — Kurşunlu, Yurtpınar, Fettahlı and Topallı — pump the same groundwater into their greenhouses, through what the park's operator puts at roughly 3,000 unlicensed wells. In dry years the 18-metre cascade has shrunk until the water only dripped from two points in the rock. When the stream runs properly it does more than fall: it carries dissolved lime, and where it froths over the edge that lime hardens back into a rock called travertine. So the ledge is built by the waterfall itself and grows a little every year, and the two-kilometre canyon below is cut through the travertine that earlier flows left behind. At the foot of the drop the water rests in a pool the locals call Nilüfer, the water lily, then steps down a chain of seven small pools. The canyon opens in the middle of a sun-scorched plain and is roofed by red pine, so the air cools within a few steps of the path leaving the heat. Laurel and pine close overhead until the water is the only loud thing left. Behind the main cascade the rock is hollowed out, and you can stand inside the hollow and look back out through the falling water. Terrapins haul out on the warm stones at the pool edges, mallards work the shallows, and the gorge holds its damp coolness through the worst of the Antalya summer. The site opened to visitors in 1986 and was declared a nature park on 21 May 1991, and around 400,000 people a year now come, more than to any other nature park in Antalya province. How much water they find depends on the season: the cascade is at its widest in late winter and spring and at its thinnest at the end of summer.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Check a recent photo before you go — the flow swings hard from year to year and month to month, and a big rain can widen the cascade within a day or two.
  • Take the path around to the hollow behind the curtain — looking out through the falling water is the one view the terraces above the canyon cannot give you.
  • Arrive at opening time — summer days bring around 1,500 people to a canyon of narrow boardwalks, and the shaded picnic tables under the old trees go first.
  • The wooden bridges and stone steps stay wet in the permanent spray and shade, so bring shoes with grip rather than sandals.
  • Sit still for a few minutes at a pool edge — terrapins climb out onto the stones and mallards drift through the shallows once the noise of the path has moved on.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Step behind the cascade

    Step behind the cascade

    The rushing water has hollowed a chamber out of the travertine behind the main drop. Step in and the waterfall becomes a curtain seen from the inside — daylight broken into moving water, the roar bouncing off wet stone, cold spray on your face.

  2. 2

    Follow the seven pools down the canyon

    Follow the seven pools down the canyon

    Below the main drop, the water rests in the pool called Nilüfer and then steps down a chain of seven small pools through the gorge. Walk the chain and watch the colour change from pool to pool as depth, shade and travertine shift underfoot.

  3. 3

    Feel the plain's heat drop away

    Feel the plain's heat drop away

    The trail leaves a sun-scorched plain and drops into the canyon, and within a few steps the temperature goes with it. Under the red pines the air turns damp and cool, and the noise of the road is replaced entirely by the sound of moving water.

  4. 4

    Picnic under the old trees

    Picnic under the old trees

    The park's shaded tables sit under red pine and century-old oriental planes, and on summer weekends they fill early with families escaping the coast. It is the local way to use this place: a long, slow afternoon in the cool, with the falls audible through the trees.

  5. 5

    Watch the terrapins and the mallards

    Watch the terrapins and the mallards

    Stand still at the edge of one of the pools and the canyon's smaller residents reappear: terrapins hauled out on the warm stones, mallards and coots working the shallows, woodpeckers at the trunks behind you. Patience buys more here than walking does.

Watch

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