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Düden Waterfall

Düden Waterfall

WaterfallsTürkiyeAntalya,Türkiye

One Turkish river with two waterfalls: a twenty-metre drop into a cave you can walk behind, then forty metres off a cliff into the Mediterranean.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Oct

The river sits at its yearly low after the dry recession, the upper fall down to a thread until the autumn rains return. Still the sea holds warm, crowds thin and boats run on calm days. The park and cave stay open.



Year-round The travertine sea cliff and the cave behind the upper falls stand every day, and the Upper Düden park opens year-round; the river's volume, the sea and the boats shift with the season.

Düden Waterfall is one river with two waterfalls in the city of Antalya, on the Mediterranean coast of Türkiye: at Upper Düden the river drops twenty metres into a cave that can be walked behind in a park of plane trees, and ten kilometres on, at Lower Düden, it falls forty metres off a cliff straight into the sea, watched from the clifftop at Lara and from the boats that leave the old harbour. The river rises from the karst springs of Kırkgöz below the Taurus and has built the ground it falls from, since the lime dropped out of its water over hundreds of thousands of years made a plateau of travertine 630 square kilometres wide, and Antalya stands on it; the Greeks named the river Katarrhaktes, the cataract, the word behind the English one, and the lower fall's other name, Karpuzkaldıran, the watermelon lifter, is said to be meant literally, for the fruit the spray threw up. At Upper Düden stone steps drop from the park into the cave the falling water carved for itself, with the curtain of water in front and the light green through it, and a railed walkway runs along the rock wall above the stream through ivy and shade. The lower fall is the one the city shows off, on the cliffs of Lara beside the beach hotels, where the river reaches the last of its travertine and tips over into open sea with the spray blowing back over the clifftop terraces and the tea gardens, and the boats out of Kaleiçi track the cliffs until the fall comes into view head-on, the only angle that shows the full forty metres from lip to water. In spring the snowmelt off the Taurus recharges the springs and both falls run at full width, with the lower one taking the whole river over the edge, and in late summer the upper fall thins as the water is drawn off for the city. Düden is a river that falls twice, and the second time it falls into the Mediterranean.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The rainbow needs the sun behind you, so it stands over the plume around the middle of the day and into the afternoon, when boats time their run; overcast days give you nothing.
  • Tour buses reach Upper Düden from late morning — the cave path behind the water is too narrow to pass a queue, so the early hours are the only quiet ones.
  • After a dry winter, look up a recent photo before you go — irrigation upstream draws the springs down, and the August fall can be a fraction of the one in the pictures.
  • The steps into the cave stay wet all year — the stone is polished, the spray is constant, and smooth soles turn the descent into a slide.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Look down as the river ends in the Mediterranean

    Look down as the river ends in the Mediterranean

    From the clifftop at Lara the whole ending is laid out beneath you: the Düden reaches the last of its travertine, tips over, and falls forty metres into open sea. The plume rolls out across the water, and the sea below the fall turns a milky pale blue where fresh water and salt fight it out. On a bright day with the sun behind you, a rainbow settles over the churn — a bow you look down onto rather than up at.

  2. 2

    Stand inside the cave behind Upper Düden

    Stand inside the cave behind Upper Düden

    Stone steps drop from the park into a cave the falling water carved for itself. Inside, the fall closes the entrance like a green shutter, daylight comes through the water rather than around it, and the noise fills the whole chamber. The air is wet, loud and several degrees cooler than the park you just left.

  3. 3

    Take the Kaleiçi boat out to the falling water

    Take the Kaleiçi boat out to the falling water

    Boats leave the old harbour and track the Lara cliffs until the waterfall comes into view head-on — the only angle that shows the full forty metres from lip to sea. They idle close enough for the spray to reach the deck, with the Taurus mountains standing behind the city skyline.

  4. 4

    Follow the gorge path above the Düden stream

    Follow the gorge path above the Düden stream

    A railed walkway runs along the rock wall above the water at Upper Düden, through ivy and plane-tree shade with the river turning white below you. It is the coolest air in Antalya on an August afternoon, and it delivers you to the head of the falls.

Watch

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