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Lake Koman

Lake Koman

LakesAlbaniaNorthern Albania (Shkodër–Kukës),Albania

A limestone canyon in northern Albania drowned by a dam in 1985, crossed by a working village ferry between walls that no road follows.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

The canyon at its fullest: every boat runs, the two-and-a-half-hour crossing is busiest, and the separate Shala-arm trip is easy to book. The wall waterfalls have mostly dried, but the Shala's shallows are finally warm enough to swim.



Year-round The drowned canyon, the 50-metre narrows and a village boat crossing the water are here every day of the year. The car ferry, the deep-green colour and the cliff waterfalls are seasonal.

Lake Koman is a limestone canyon in northern Albania, between Shkodër and Kukës, drowned by a dam on the Drin river in 1985, and it is crossed by a working village ferry that runs three hours through walls no road follows, between green water and cliffs of a thousand metres, on a route that is not a cruise but the road the villages do not have. The lake exists to feed a power station, four turbines in a hall hollowed out inside the mountain at the dam, and the ferries that carry the people of the Drin valley to the town of Fierzë carry travellers with them, on the way to the Valbona valley and the Accursed Mountains beyond; the boat leaves Koman in the morning through a tunnel to the dock, and the canyon closes in almost at once, the water the green of the limestone dissolved in it, the walls rising sheer, and the channel turning so tightly that the way ahead seems shut until the boat rounds the corner. Stone houses show up high above the water on the slopes, singly or in twos, some reached only by boat, and the ferry stops at their landings for a woman with a goat or a man with a sack of flour. A side channel with no road to it, the Shala arm, leads to shallow water so clear the gravel bed shows through, backed by cliffs, and a few families there put up visitors in summer for the swimming. In spring the snow coming off the Albanian Alps drives the Drin, and the porous limestone leaks it back out in thin waterfalls down the canyon walls, mostly dry by high summer. Archaeologists opened graves beside the Dalmace hillfort near Koman in 1898 and found the jewellery and weapons of an early medieval people they named the Koman culture, the link between the Illyrians and the Albanians. Lake Koman is a road made of water, and the ferry is how the valley gets home.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take the first boat of the day — the water is glassy before the wind gets up towards midday, and the morning sun lights one wall while the other is still in shadow.
  • Take a place at the rail early — the deck is shared with vehicles the whole way, and the open sides are the only spot the canyon really opens up.
  • The Shala arm is a separate trip — the scheduled ferry does not turn into it, so a smaller boat has to be booked if you want its shallow turquoise water.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride the working ferry to Fierzë

    Ride the working ferry to Fierzë

    This is not a sightseeing cruise but the road these villages do not have. Cars are driven onto the open deck alongside crates, sacks and people going home, and for two and a half hours you watch the canyon from among them. Midway the walls close to just over fifty metres, the engine noise comes back off the rock, and for a minute there is no horizon in any direction.

  2. 2

    Turn off into the Shala arm

    Turn off into the Shala arm

    A side channel with no road to it leads to shallow water so clear the gravel bed shows through, backed by cliffs. Small boats run in from the main lake and beach on the shingle; the water is snowmelt, and it is cold.

  3. 3

    Pick out the villages left above the waterline

    Pick out the villages left above the waterline

    Watch the slopes while the boat runs and stone houses begin showing up high above the water, singly or in twos. They farmed a river valley until the reservoir took the floor and the road along it. Nothing reaches them now but the path down to a jetty and the boat you are standing on.

Watch

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