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Lake Koman

Lake Koman

LakesKuzey Albanya (Shkodër–Kukës), Albania
August·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

The canyon at its fullest: every boat runs, the two-and-a-half-hour crossing is busiest, and the separate Shala-arm trip is easy to book. The wall waterfalls have mostly dried, but the Shala's shallows are finally warm enough to swim.



Year-round The drowned canyon, the 50-metre narrows and a village boat crossing the water are here every day of the year. The car ferry, the deep-green colour and the cliff waterfalls are seasonal.

Lake Koman did not exist before 1986. Between 1979 and 1985 Albania's communist government raised a rock-fill dam at the village of Koman, the middle of three built along the Drin, and when the gates closed the river backed up 34 kilometres into its own limestone canyon, covering the valley floor, the farmland and the road along the riverbank. What it left behaves less like a reservoir than a fjord: green water roughly 400 metres across for much of its length, pinching at the narrows to little more than 50, with pale grey walls standing several hundred metres straight out of it. The road never came back. Villages that once sat above a river now sit above a lake with no way in or out except by boat, and the ferry that serves them is also how a traveller sees the canyon. The name here is older than the water — a hillfort on the ridge above the dam gave an entire early-medieval culture its name. The road to the pier ends in a one-lane tunnel cut through the cliff, unlit; you come out of the dark facing black water, with the dock hard to the right. The crossing to Fierzë takes about two and a half hours, cars, villagers and sacks of shopping sharing one open deck, with stops at jetties where nothing waits but a footpath climbing into the trees. In spring, as snow comes off the Albanian Alps, water seeps out of the porous limestone and falls down the walls in thin white threads, and the lake turns its deepest green. Most people ride to the far end and go on into the Valbona valley; the Shala arm, which has no road either, is reached only in a smaller boat. The car ferry runs mid-April to early November; in winter a small passenger boat keeps the villages connected.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take the first boat of the day — the water is glassy before the wind gets up towards midday, and the morning sun lights one wall while the other is still in shadow.
  • The pier is reached through a one-lane unlit tunnel — minibuses from Shkodër are timed to the ferry, which spares you driving the tunnel yourself and finding space at the dock.
  • The car ferry only runs mid-April to early November — outside those months a small passenger boat still crosses, but with no car deck and far fewer departures.
  • The Shala arm is a separate trip — the scheduled ferry does not turn into it, so a smaller boat has to be booked if you want its shallow turquoise water.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride the working ferry to Fierzë

    Ride the working ferry to Fierzë

    This is not a sightseeing cruise but the road these villages do not have. Cars are driven onto the open deck alongside crates, sacks and people going home, and for two and a half hours you watch the canyon from among them.

  2. 2

    Pass through the 50-metre narrows

    Pass through the 50-metre narrows

    At the tightest point the canyon closes to just over fifty metres and the grey limestone rises straight out of the water on both sides. The engine noise comes back off the rock, and for a minute there is no horizon in any direction.

  3. 3

    Turn off into the Shala arm

    Turn off into the Shala arm

    A side channel with no road to it leads to shallow water so clear the gravel bed shows through, backed by cliffs. Small boats run in from the main lake and beach on the shingle; the water is snowmelt, and it is cold.

  4. 4

    Reach the pier through the unlit cliff tunnel

    Reach the pier through the unlit cliff tunnel

    The road to the Koman dock ends in a one-lane tunnel bored through the rock, unlit and only wide enough for a single vehicle. Edge through the dark and you come out facing black water with the jetty hard on your right — the first, abrupt sight of the drowned canyon before you even board. Time a minibus from Shkodër to the ferry and you skip driving the tunnel and hunting for space at the dock.

Watch

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