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Milford Sound

Milford Sound

FjordsNew ZealandSouthland,New Zealand

A 15-kilometre fiord in New Zealand's Fiordland, cruised out to the open sea between walls 1,200 metres high that run with waterfalls after rain.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Nov

Spring is the wildlife peak: tawaki chicks hatch in September and fledge by late November, seal pups and dolphin calves appear, snowmelt swells the falls, and the Milford Track reopens on 1 November.



Year-round Rain falls on about 182 days a year, feeding two permanent waterfalls and cliffs that can burst into hundreds more after any storm, in any month.

Milford Sound is a fifteen-kilometre fiord on the southwest coast of New Zealand's South Island, in Fiordland, where cliffs 1,200 metres high come straight out of the sea with no shore at their feet, and after rain the walls run with waterfalls from end to end. It is a fiord, not a sound: a glacier cut this trench below sea level and the ocean filled it when the ice melted, and the early sailors who named it simply got the word wrong. At its head stands Mitre Peak, 1,692 metres straight from the water and the most photographed mountain in the country, doubled in the fiord on a still morning. Rain falls here on about 182 days a year, close to seven metres of it, and this is not a reason to stay away: each heavy downpour sends hundreds of temporary waterfalls over the cliff edges at once, and the two permanent ones, Stirling and Bowen, are joined by a thousand others for a few hours. The boat is the way to see it. Cruises run the full length to where the fiord meets the Tasman Sea, passing under the falls close enough for the spray to reach the deck, with fur seals resting on the rocks and bottlenose dolphins riding the bow wave; rare Fiordland crested penguins come ashore in July to nest, and their chicks are out on the rocks by spring. Guided kayaks set out from the head of the fiord early, when the water is at its calmest and the cliffs are silent apart from the falls. At Harrison's Cove a floating observatory lowers you ten metres beneath the surface into a round viewing chamber, and what you see there explains the fiord's strangest fact: a permanent layer of fresh water, stained dark by rainforest tannins, floats on top of the salt and blocks so much light that black coral and other deep-sea creatures live within reach of a snorkel. Rudyard Kipling called Milford Sound the eighth wonder of the world, and the rain is part of the wonder.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take the first boat out — the earliest cruises leave before the Queenstown coaches arrive, giving you the emptiest decks and the stillest, most mirror-like water of the day.
  • A wet day is the good day — a downpour is exactly when hundreds of temporary waterfalls appear, so don't cancel for grey skies; rain shows the fiord at full power.
  • Watch the water, not only the walls — bottlenose dolphins often ride the bow wave, fur seals bask on the rocks, and rare Fiordland crested penguins come ashore to nest in spring.
  • Fuel up and check the road in Te Anau — the Homer Tunnel is the only way in, there is no petrol at Milford, and the road can close for avalanche control in winter.
  • Cover up against the sandflies — Milford's biting sandflies are famous and fierce at the waterside, especially on still, damp evenings; bring repellent before you step off the boat.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cruise the fiord out to the open sea

    Cruise the fiord out to the open sea

    A boat runs the full 15 kilometres to where the fiord meets the Tasman Sea, under walls that come straight out of the water with no shore to soften them. On the way it noses in under Lady Bowen, which drops 162 metres near the head — on a windy day the spray blows clean across the deck. Out at the mouth the swell picks up and you understand why Cook sailed past the entrance twice without seeing it.

  2. 2

    Kayak on the silent water

    Kayak on the silent water

    Guided kayak trips set out from the head of the fiord, usually early in the morning when the water is at its calmest. Sitting only centimetres above the surface, you see the walls that rise more than 1,200 metres beside you at their full height, which no cruise deck can match. Fur seals rest on the rocks along the waterline, and the waterfalls are audible long before you reach them.

  3. 3

    Watch a thousand waterfalls after rain

    Watch a thousand waterfalls after rain

    Rain falls here on about 182 days a year, and each heavy downpour sends hundreds of temporary waterfalls over the cliff edges at the same time. They run the full height of the walls, more than a thousand metres in places, and they drain away within a few hours of the sky clearing. The time to be out on the water is during the rain itself or immediately after it.

  4. 4

    Capture the reflection of Mitre Peak

    Capture the reflection of Mitre Peak

    Mitre Peak rises 1,692 metres straight from the head of the fiord and is the most photographed mountain in New Zealand. On a windless morning the water goes completely flat and the whole pyramid appears upside down in it. The calm usually breaks once the breeze gets up later in the day, so the earliest boats give the best chance of catching the reflection.

  5. 5

    Drop below the surface at the observatory

    Drop below the surface at the observatory

    At Harrison's Cove a floating observatory lowers you ten metres beneath the fiord into a round viewing chamber. Black coral and other deep-sea creatures drift past the glass in the tannin-dimmed water, species you would normally have to dive far deeper to reach.

Watch

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