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Milford Sound

Milford Sound

FjordsSouthland, Fiordland, New Zealand
August·Quiet month

May–Aug

Snow reaches Mitre Peak and still mornings mirror it; day boats sail all winter. But the Milford Track leaves Great Walk season on 1 May — bridges pulled, huts unserviced — overnight cruises stop, departures thin, and chains must be carried from June.



Year-round Rain falls on about 180 days a year, feeding two permanent waterfalls and cliffs that can burst into hundreds more after any storm, in any month.

Milford Sound catches more than six metres of rain a year, and that soaking is the whole attraction: after a heavy storm, hundreds of temporary waterfalls burst at once from cliffs that rise more than 1,200 metres straight out of the water. The 15-kilometre inlet was gouged by glaciers and later drowned by the Tasman Sea, which makes it a true fiord rather than the "sound" its name claims — a label left by the Welsh sealer John Grono, who named it for Milford Haven back home after Captain Cook had sailed past the hidden entrance twice. Māori knew it long before as Piopiotahi, and today it anchors Te Wāhipounamu, a UNESCO World Heritage area. Guarding the head of the fiord is Mitre Peak, a sheer 1,692-metre pyramid that is the most photographed mountain in the country. Rain falls here on about 182 days a year, and the fiord looks its best soaking wet: the two permanent falls, Lady Bowen and Stirling, thunder down more than 150 metres all year, while the temporary ones lace the dark walls with silver and drain away within hours of the clouds parting. On the rare windless day the water settles into a flawless mirror of the peaks. Boats run to the foot of the cliffs, close enough to catch Stirling Falls' spray, past fur seals hauled out on the rocks and pods of bottlenose dolphins. Stranger still is what hangs just below the surface: a dark layer of freshwater, stained by rainforest tannins, filters the light so heavily that deep-sea black coral grows within ten metres of the top, visible from an underwater observatory at Harrison's Cove. Nearly everyone reaches all this through the Homer Tunnel, a raw 1.2-kilometre bore driven through solid rock and opened in 1954 — still the only road in.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take the first boat out — the earliest cruises leave before the Queenstown coaches arrive, giving you the emptiest decks and the stillest, most mirror-like water of the day.
  • A wet day is the good day — a downpour is exactly when hundreds of temporary waterfalls appear, so don't cancel for grey skies; rain shows the fiord at full power.
  • Watch the water, not only the walls — bottlenose dolphins often ride the bow wave, fur seals bask on the rocks, and rare Fiordland crested penguins come ashore to nest in spring.
  • Fuel up and check the road in Te Anau — the Homer Tunnel is the only way in, there is no petrol at Milford, and the road can close for avalanche control in winter.
  • Cover up against the sandflies — Milford's biting sandflies are famous and fierce at the waterside, especially on still, damp evenings; bring repellent before you step off the boat.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cruise out to the open sea

    Cruise out to the open sea

    Ride a boat the full length of the fiord to where it opens onto the Tasman Sea, passing beneath rock walls that climb straight out of the water and drawing close under the permanent falls before turning back for the sheltered head.

  2. 2

    Kayak on the silent water

    Kayak on the silent water

    Guided kayak trips set out from the head of the fiord, usually early in the morning when the water is at its calmest. Sitting only centimetres above the surface, you see the walls that rise more than 1,200 metres beside you at their full height, which no cruise deck can match. Fur seals rest on the rocks along the waterline, and the waterfalls are audible long before you reach them.

  3. 3

    Feel the spray of Lady Bowen Falls

    Feel the spray of Lady Bowen Falls

    Near the head of the fiord, Lady Bowen Falls drops around 160 metres in two leaps — the more powerful of Milford's two permanent cascades. Boats draw in close beneath it, and on a windy day the spray blows right across the deck.

  4. 4

    Watch a thousand waterfalls after rain

    Watch a thousand waterfalls after rain

    Rain falls here on about 182 days a year, and each heavy downpour sends hundreds of temporary waterfalls over the cliff edges at the same time. They run the full height of the walls, more than a thousand metres in places, and they drain away within a few hours of the sky clearing. The time to be out on the water is during the rain itself or immediately after it.

  5. 5

    Capture the reflection of Mitre Peak

    Capture the reflection of Mitre Peak

    Mitre Peak rises 1,692 metres straight from the head of the fiord and is the most photographed mountain in New Zealand. On a windless morning the water goes completely flat and the whole pyramid appears upside down in it. The calm usually breaks once the breeze gets up later in the day, so the earliest boats give the best chance of catching the reflection.

  6. 6

    Drop below the surface at the observatory

    At Harrison's Cove a floating observatory lowers you ten metres beneath the fiord into a round viewing chamber, where black coral and other deep-sea creatures drift past the glass in the tannin-dimmed water — species you would normally have to dive far deeper to reach.

Watch

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