Pravčická brána is the largest natural sandstone arch in Europe, and since 1982 nobody has been allowed to walk across it. The gate spans 26.5 metres with sixteen metres of air beneath it, yet the arch is barely three metres thick at its slimmest — a beam of rock that has been thinning for millions of years. Its own popularity closed it: a century and a half of boots wore the sandstone down, and the walkway over the top was shut for good. What you get instead is the view it frames. Stand below the span and the arch becomes a window, with dark spruce forest dropping toward the Elbe valley and the blunt cone of Růžovský vrch sitting squarely in the opening.
Getting up here is stairs, roots and gritty damp stone, with spruce resin in the air, and you pay at a gate to enter what is still private land. The rock is old seabed, split along vertical cracks by rain and frost into the towers and ravines that run on across the German border into Saxon Switzerland. An inn opened below the arch in 1826, and in 1881 Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen added the Sokolí hnízdo, the Falcon's Nest, a timbered lodge that still serves lunch. On still autumn mornings cold air settles in the gorges, fog fills the valley, and the sandstone towers stand out of it like islands. The newest chapter is written in the trees. In July 2022 the largest wildfire in modern Czech history burned more than a thousand hectares of the park and destroyed houses in Mezná, the village below. The arch and the lodge came through it, the trails have reopened, and green is already climbing back beneath the blackened trunks.