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Schiessentümpel Waterfall

Schiessentümpel Waterfall

WaterfallsLuxembourgMüllerthal (Lüksemburg'un Küçük İsviçre'si),Luxembourg

A Luxembourg waterfall a few metres high that splits into three arms around one boulder, under an 1879 sandstone bridge railed with bare tree branches.

September·Edge of season

Sep

Autumn rains return to refill the Black Ernz and the summer crowds thin, but the beech canopy is still mostly green — the colour is a few weeks off. A cool, quiet shoulder, with the visitor centre still open most days of the week.



Year-round The three-armed fall, its plunge pool and the branch-railed 1879 bridge stand in every month, deep in a permanently wet, shaded gorge; the water's force, the beech colour and winter ice shift with the season.

The Schiessentümpel Waterfall is a fall of a few metres on the Black Ernz stream in the Müllerthal, the Little Switzerland of Luxembourg, where the water splits into three arms around a single boulder under a sandstone bridge of 1879 railed with bare tree branches, and it is the emblem of the region, reached by a stair of mossy sandstone blocks down from the road on the Mullerthal Trail. The bridge is short enough to cross in ten paces, an arch built by one stonemason in four months, from 20 March to 27 July 1879, with ferns growing straight out of its mortar and a railing of rustic branches, and it stands with one foot in each of two communes, since the boundary between Waldbillig and Consdorf runs down the middle of the stream; the fall below it is small, but the three white strands over the dark rock, the moss and the arch together make the picture on every brochure of the country, and the pool at the foot is where the name comes from. The way down drops through ivy and beech until the traffic noise is gone, and the trail follows the stream through a gorge of sandstone. The rock is what makes the region: the Luxembourg sandstone does not shed rain but swallows it, porous enough to hold water like a sponge and let it out slowly through springs, and it has weathered into cliffs, chimneys and crevices that the trail threads through, most famously the Kuelscheier east of the falls, a rock corridor tens of metres long, narrow and almost pitch black, walked with a torch or skirted by the marked detour. The beech woods above the gorge turn gold and copper from mid-October into early November, and the wet black sandstone under them makes the colour read twice as strong; the stream is rain-fed and runs fullest from December to March, when all three arms are heavy, and can thin to trickles by late summer. The Schiessentümpel is a small waterfall with a famous bridge, and the sandstone country around it is the walk.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Walk in along the valley rather than dropping straight off the road — the longer approach keeps the falls hidden until the last bend, when the bridge and all three cascades arrive at once.
  • Shoot from the streambed, not the bridge — the deck is narrow and gets busy, while from below you can line up all three arms with the arch behind them.
  • The wet sandstone is genuinely slippery — moss and constant spray leave the boulders around the pool slick, and there is no railing where the path scrambles down to the water.
  • Check whether it has rained recently — the stream is rain-fed, and after a dry summer spell the three arms thin to trickles over a bare boulder.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross the bridge that put the Müllerthal on the map

    Cross the bridge that put the Müllerthal on the map

    The arch is short enough to cross in ten paces, and ferns grow straight out of its mortar. From the deck you look down onto the three cascades and hear them working under your feet. It carries no road and never has — the bridge was built to be stood on.

  2. 2

    Walk the Mullerthal Trail along the Black Ernz

    Walk the Mullerthal Trail along the Black Ernz

    The way down from the road is a stair of mossy sandstone blocks set into the hillside, dropping through ivy and beech until the traffic noise is gone. Keep going past the bridge and you are on the 112-kilometre Mullerthal Trail, whose gentlest stretch runs beside the Black Ernz over plank bridges and past old mills. Route 2 carries on east towards the Eilebuerg and Goldkaul rock formations, and the crowd thins within minutes — most people photograph the falls and turn straight back.

  3. 3

    Squeeze through the dark fissure at Kuelscheier

    Squeeze through the dark fissure at Kuelscheier

    East of the falls the trail runs straight into the Kuelscheier, a rock corridor about a hundred metres long, narrow and almost pitch black — bring a torch, or take the marked detour around it. Its walls are pitted with honeycomb hollows, and in places you can touch both sides at once.

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