The Great Aletsch Glacier is the largest body of ice in the Alps, a frozen river more than twenty kilometres long coiling down from the high Bernese Oberland. At Konkordiaplatz, a wide ice basin high in the range, four separate firn fields flow together into one stream close to 900 metres thick. That is deeper than most mountains are tall. Long dark stripes run the length of the surface, tracing the ice's route like grain in a plank. From above, the glacier reads as a road rather than a field of snow. It lies at the heart of Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch, inscribed in 2001 as the first World Heritage Site in the Alps and the largest glaciated area in western Eurasia.
The best views come from the ridges above the ice rather than from the ice itself. Cable cars rise from the car-free villages of the Aletsch Arena to the balconies of Eggishorn, Bettmerhorn and Moosfluh. From those heights the glacier curves away between bare rock walls toward the horizon, pale blue where the summer sun has stripped the winter snow off it. On the slopes just below grows a forest of Swiss stone pines, some of the oldest trees in the country. The Aletsch you see now is a diminished one. It has drawn back more than three kilometres since 1870, loses over fifty metres of length a year, and glaciologists expect most of the ice to be gone by the end of this century. To stand on a ridge and watch it bend into the distance is to see the Alps at their largest scale, and to see it going.