The Fürstensteig is a footpath blasted into a cliff to mark a prince's anniversary. Between 1897 and 1898 workers cut a narrow ledge across the northwest wall of the Alpspitz above Gaflei, and the path opened on 17 July 1898, in the fortieth year of Prince Johann II's reign. He paid for one section, Karl Schädler — who ran the spa hotel at Gaflei — paid for a second, and the Vorarlberg branch of the alpine club paid for the third. What they left is a path about a shoulder's width across, with limestone on one side, air on the other, and a steel cable to hold. You walk it on your own feet, with no rope and no climbing gear. The Swiss walking scale rates it T3, meaning an exposed mountain path that asks for a sure step rather than climbing skill. Past the ledge a ridge carries on over the Kuhgrat, at 2,123 metres the high point of the walk, to the Three Sisters on the Austrian border.
Step onto the ledge and the Rhine Valley drops away beneath your boots: Vaduz, the river and its vineyards lie roughly 1,600 metres below, and on a clear morning the view carries north to Lake Constance. Alpine rose and the flowers of the scree come out in June and July; chamois cross the loose rock above the path. Come in autumn and the valley often fills with fog while the ridge stands in sun. Nothing here is permanent, though. The path closes every winter, rockfall and debris bury it, and each spring crews clear and repair the ledge before it reopens; one rockfall shut it for a whole season, and the last repairs ran into June. For a country you can drive across in half an hour, this is a serious mountain day: five to six hours, a thousand-metre descent, and a stretch where your only handhold is a wire.