The Belvedere is two Baroque palaces at either end of a garden that steps down a slope, and the arrangement exists for the view. From the upper palace the garden falls away and the city sits at the bottom of it, with sphinxes, cascades and clipped hedges doing the work in between. Each terrace opens a different view rather than simply decorating the ground. The palaces went up in the 1710s and 20s for Prince Eugene of Savoy, a Habsburg commander.
Since 1923 the Upper Belvedere has held the national collection, and one room in it draws most of the traffic. The Kiss is a square canvas, 180 centimetres on each side, worked in oil with gold, silver and platinum leaf. In person that gold is not flat: it is tooled, scratched and raised so that it moves as you do. Around it hang more Klimt than exists anywhere else, along with Schiele, Kokoschka and the Austrian nineteenth century. The same rooms hold Judith of 1901, in a metal frame made by Klimt's brother Georg to his design, its title punched into the top.