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Secession Building

Secession Building

Vienna City Guide
Museum · Innere Stadt (1st)AustriaVienna,Austria

A white Vienna block under a dome of gilded iron laurel leaves, built in 1898 by artists who walked out, with Klimt's Beethoven Frieze downstairs.

The Secession Building is a plain white block under a dome of thousands of gilded iron laurel leaves, which Vienna mocked as the golden cabbage. Over the door runs the motto of the artists who built it: to every age its art, to art its freedom. They put it up in 1898 after walking out of the society that controlled every exhibition in the city. Gustav Klimt was their first president, Joseph Maria Olbrich designed the building at thirty, and the steel magnate Karl Wittgenstein paid for much of it. Downstairs hangs the Beethoven Frieze, thirty-four metres of painted plaster Klimt made in 1902. Wide stretches are left bare, because it was meant to be seen once and then thrown away, and you meet it in a windowless basement room built to hold it. Bombs hit the building in 1945 and retreating German troops set it on fire, so the white hall above you is a rebuild. The artists' association still owns the place and hangs new work upstairs; between shows that hall is closed and the frieze is all there is.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Walk along one side wall before you go in — Three owls sit high on each flank, made by Olbrich himself in cement from Koloman Moser's drawings. They belong to Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom.
  • Check what the flower tubs are standing on — The two mosaic planters at the entrance steps rest on stone tortoises, designed by Robert Oerley rather than by Olbrich.
  • Look closely at the gold lettering — It was taken down in 1908 and only put back when the building was rebuilt in the 1960s, so the words you read are a modern copy.
  • Look across the square at the domed Karlskirche — The artists asked for a site on the Ringstrasse boulevard and were turned down, so the city gave them this one. Olbrich's gold dome answers that baroque one.
  • Treat the frieze as the side show it was — Klimt painted it for a side room of the 1902 exhibition, whose centrepiece was a marble Beethoven by Max Klinger. That statue is in Leipzig now.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Find the hardware inside Klimt's gold

    Find the hardware inside Klimt's gold

    Go to the middle wall of the basement room, where a giant ape-shaped monster and three snake-haired women fill the plaster. Get as close as the room allows and look from an angle, not straight on. Klimt pressed mother-of-pearl buttons, brass rings, upholstery nails and mirror fragments into the surface, so parts of the shine are real metal and shell.

  2. 2

    Follow the knight from wall to wall

    Follow the knight from wall to wall

    Start at the left wall, where floating figures drift and a kneeling couple beg an armoured knight to act for them. Cross to the middle wall of monsters. Finish on the right, where a choir sings and a couple embrace. That last group stands for a line sung in Beethoven's Ninth Symphony: this kiss to the whole world.

  3. 3

    Catch the dome coming apart in low sun

    Catch the dome coming apart in low sun

    Stand on Friedrichstrasse below the front steps with the sun well down towards the rooftops. The dome is made of separate pieces of gilded ironwork, and only low sideways light pulls it apart into a thicket of leaves and berries. Under flat midday sun the same dome reads as one dull gold ball.

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