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Lake Abant

Lake Abant

LakesTürkiyeBolu,Türkiye

A fir-ringed lake at 1,328 metres in northwest Türkiye, circled on a seven-kilometre shore road, with a trout and a crocus found nowhere else.

September·Edge of season

Sep

Early autumn: the summer crowds thin, the air turns crisp, and the forest still holds its green with only the first flecks of colour. Fine, quiet walking weather in the weeks before the beech turns.



Year-round Fir and Scots pine run to the waterline, beech and hornbeam mixed through; the 1,328-metre lake, the seven-kilometre shore road and the forest are here every day, cool even in high summer.

Lake Abant is a lake ringed by fir at 1,328 metres in the mountains of Bolu province, in northwestern Türkiye, two and a half hours from Istanbul, circled on a flat shore road of seven kilometres with the forest coming down to the water, and it holds a trout and a crocus found nowhere else, the trout restocked by hand and the crocus pushing up pale blue in the shoreline meadows as the snow pulls back. The lake was made when a landslide dammed the valley, not by gravity alone but by the shaking of the North Anatolian fault, which runs beneath the mountains and is still working, and it is shallow, warm enough to swim in summer and frozen from the bank inward in January and February, closing across completely in a hard winter while the fir stands white on every slope around it; the shore road runs the whole way round in about two hours at a walking pace, with the fir on the left and the hotels and picnic meadows on the right, and on a windless morning before the sun clears the ridge the fir slope stands in the water doubled. For decades the red faytons, the horse carriages, were the sound of Abant, with some 200 families from the villages driving them around the lake, until the carriages were banned in 2021 for the sake of the horses. The Abant trout, a species of the lake alone, no longer holds on unaided and is bred and released by the fisheries, and the Abant crocus, pale blue with a bright yellow throat, opens in the meadows at the water's edge in early spring, the lake's own flower; from the last week of October into the first days of November the oriental beech and hornbeam turn copper and gold against the evergreen fir, the lake's busiest weeks with the cars from Istanbul and Ankara. Abant is a lake a fault made, and its trout and its crocus belong to it alone.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • A rented bike beats the cart — the loop is flat asphalt and takes under an hour on two wheels against two on foot, but cars use the same road, so keep an ear behind you.
  • Weekends belong to the day-trippers from Istanbul and Ankara. Come midweek, or simply walk to the far side of the loop, and you will get long stretches of shoreline to yourself.
  • Abant is a ticketed nature park, not open moorland — you pay at a gate to drive or walk in, and at 1,300 metres the road in can need chains after heavy snow.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Circle the lake on the seven-kilometre shore road

    Circle the lake on the seven-kilometre shore road

    One flat asphalt road runs the whole way round, roughly two hours at a walking pace, with the fir coming down to the water on your left. The far side is where the day-trippers stop coming. Stay until the coaches leave and sit among the reeds at the shallow end, where the loudest thing is water moving through the stems.

  2. 2

    Catch the fir slope in the dawn mirror

    Catch the fir slope in the dawn mirror

    Get to the shore before the sun clears the ridge, on a morning with no wind. The surface lies dead flat and the whole opposite slope appears upside down in it, fir by fir; in autumn a thin mist sits on the water and burns off within the hour. The first breeze breaks the reflection up, and it usually does not come back until evening.

  3. 3

    Walk the shore when the lake freezes

    Walk the shore when the lake freezes

    Through January and February the ice creeps out from the bank and, in a hard winter, closes over the whole lake, while the fir forest stands white on every slope around it. Sledges appear, the loop road becomes a snow walk, and the lake reads as a flat white field with a dark wooden house on the far bank.

  4. 4

    Find the crocus that is named after the lake

    As the snow pulls back in early spring, Crocus abantensis pushes up in the shoreline meadows — a pale-blue flower with a bright yellow throat. It is low, small and easy to walk straight past, so go slowly and watch the grass at the edge of the loop road rather than the view.

Watch

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