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Lake Abant

Lake Abant

LakesBolu, Türkiye
August·Quiet month

Jul–Aug

High summer fills the gate with day-trippers, yet the fir forest holds the cold even in August — a cool refuge when Istanbul and Ankara bake. No bloom or colour is on and nothing closes; walk to the far shore and it empties.



Year-round Fir and Scots pine run to the waterline, beech and hornbeam mixed through; the 1,328-metre lake, the seven-kilometre shore road and the forest are here every day, cool even in high summer.

Lake Abant exists because a mountainside gave way. A landslide blocked the valley of the Abant Stream, water gathered behind the debris, and what settled there is a natural dam lake — no river built it and no crater holds it — 1,328 metres up in the Bolu mountains, 127 hectares across and nowhere deeper than 18 metres. The ground has not finished moving: the lake lies on the North Anatolian Fault, which ruptured close by in 1957. Fir and Scots pine run all the way down to the waterline, oriental beech and hornbeam mixed through them, and the forest holds the cold even in August. The lake has bred its own life, too. The Abant trout, a red-spotted fish that survives here and in a few neighbouring streams, is now restocked by hand; the Abant crocus was described in 1975 from these slopes and grows wild almost nowhere else. Abant became a nature park in 1988 and, in June 2022, Turkey's 48th national park. A single asphalt road, seven kilometres long, runs right around the shore, and walking it takes about two hours. For decades that circuit belonged to red horse-drawn carriages; the park banned the horses in 2022, and battery-powered carts now do the round. In autumn the beech turns copper and gold against the black-green of the fir. In winter the lake ices over from the shore inward, sometimes right across, and the shoreline path becomes a walk on snow. Abant is no longer a quiet secret: cars enter through an automatic toll gate, hotels line the approach, and the park counted around 570,000 visitors in 2023, most of them on day trips from Istanbul and Ankara. Come away from the entrance, though, and the shore still goes quiet.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come at first light for the mirror — the surface holds its glass until the mid-morning breeze, and autumn dawns add a mist over the water that burns off within an hour or two.
  • A rented bike beats the cart — the loop is flat asphalt and takes under an hour on two wheels against two on foot, but cars use the same road, so keep an ear behind you.
  • Weekends belong to the day-trippers from Istanbul and Ankara. Come midweek, or simply walk to the far side of the loop, and you will get long stretches of shoreline to yourself.
  • A fully frozen lake is luck, not a schedule — the ice closes in from the shore through January and February, but in a mild winter it never quite meets in the middle.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Circle the lake on the seven-kilometre shore road

    Circle the lake on the seven-kilometre shore road

    One flat asphalt road runs the whole way round, roughly two hours at a walking pace, with the fir coming down to the water on your left and the lake showing itself from a new angle at every bend. It is the way to meet Abant properly, and the far side is where the day-trippers stop coming.

  2. 2

    Catch the fir slope in the dawn mirror

    Catch the fir slope in the dawn mirror

    Get to the shore before the sun clears the ridge, on a morning with no wind. The surface lies dead flat and the whole opposite slope appears upside down in it, fir by fir. The first breeze breaks the reflection up, and it usually does not come back until evening.

  3. 3

    Wait out the day-trippers on the reed shore

    Wait out the day-trippers on the reed shore

    The coaches leave in the late afternoon and Abant empties. Sit among the reed beds at the shallow end as the light goes orange behind the ridge, and the loudest thing left is the water moving through the stems.

  4. 4

    Walk the shore when the lake freezes

    Walk the shore when the lake freezes

    Through January and February the ice creeps out from the bank and, in a hard winter, closes over the whole lake, while the fir forest stands white on every slope around it. Sledges appear, the loop road becomes a snow walk, and the lake reads as a flat white field with a dark wooden house on the far bank.

  5. 5

    Find the crocus that is named after the lake

    As the snow pulls back in early spring, Crocus abantensis pushes up in the shoreline meadows — a pale-blue flower with a bright yellow throat, described in 1975 from these very slopes and growing wild almost nowhere else. It is low, small and easy to walk straight past, so watch the grass at the edge of the road.

Watch

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