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Portuguese Synagogue

Portuguese Synagogue

Amsterdam City Guide
Synagogue · Jodenbuurt (Centrum)NetherlandsAmsterdam,Netherlands

An Amsterdam hall of 1675 never wired for electricity or heated, lit by a thousand candles over a floor strewn with sand.

The Portuguese Synagogue has never been wired for electric light. Evening services are still held by candlelight, close to a thousand candles when the whole building is lit, in twenty-six brass chandeliers hung in three patterns. Fine sand is spread over the pine floor, an old Dutch habit that soaks up wet from shoes and deadens footsteps. Twelve stone columns carry the women's gallery, and the benches face each other down the length of the hall in the Sephardic arrangement. It was the largest synagogue anywhere when it opened in 1675, and it has never been heated, so you keep your coat on through the winter. The families who built it descended from Jews forced to convert in Spain and Portugal, and they came to Amsterdam because here they could worship openly. Three congregations merged in 1639 to pay for it, and the whole thing rests on some three thousand wooden piles driven twelve metres down to a sand layer. The war left the building undamaged and the congregation destroyed: most of its members were deported and never came back. It reopened four days after the liberation.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Do not plan this for a Saturday — the synagogue is closed every Sabbath and on Jewish holidays, and that is the single most common mistake visitors make here.
  • Pick a bright day if you can — there is no electric light in the sanctuary, so on a grey afternoon the far end goes dim and the carving on the ark flattens out.
  • Look at the chandeliers rather than through them — they come in three different patterns because three separate congregations merged to build this hall, and each brought its own brasswork into the new building.
  • Ask where the library is before you leave — Ets Haim sits in one of the low buildings around the hall and is normally seen through glass, with closer access by appointment or on special days.
  • Walk round the outside before going in — low brick annexes ring the hall, holding the winter synagogue, the ritual bath and the library, which is why it reads as a walled compound.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Stop inside the door and look at how the hall is lit

    Stop inside the door and look at how the hall is lit

    Come in and stand still before walking up the hall. Everything lighting this room is either a window or a flame. Look for the wall brackets and the tall free-standing candlesticks as well as the hanging chandeliers; together they take close to a thousand candles when the building is fully lit.

  2. 2

    Stand in the aisle and look at how the benches face

    Stand in the aisle and look at how the benches face

    Walk to the middle of the hall and look along the seating rather than towards the ark. The benches run lengthwise and face each other across the aisle, which is the Sephardic arrangement. A service happens in the space between two banks of people rather than in front of an audience.

Watch

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