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Casa Vicens

Casa Vicens

Barcelona City Guide
Museum · GràciaBarcelona, Spain

Casa Vicens came out of books. Antoni Gaudí was in his early thirties and barely known, working from engravings and photographic plates — Mudéjar brickwork, Islamic tile — of buildings he had never seen. He set the result on a narrow lane in Gràcia, then still a town of its own, where Barcelona families kept summer houses. The ground supplied the ornament: marigolds growing on the plot became ceramic tiles, and a dwarf fan palm's leaf was cast over and over into the iron railing. Inside, the rooms are small and almost no surface is left plain: ivy, cherries and birds painted up the dining-room walls and across the ceiling, a smoking room roofed in gilded papier-mâché, patterned tile underfoot. Outside, the green-and-white chequerboard climbs the brick and does not stop until the turret. The Vicens family sold up within a generation. The next owners kept the house for more than a century, and it opened as a museum only in 2017 — the last of Gaudí's major houses to do so.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The quietest of the big Gaudí houses — the rooms are small, so let a group move ahead and take each one alone rather than shuffling through behind them.
  • Glazed tile needs low sun — at midday the green-and-white grid flattens to grey, while in late light the glaze looks wet and the marigold bands burn yellow.
  • Try to find the join — part of the house was added about forty years later, in Gaudí's own manner. Almost everyone walks past the seam without seeing it.
  • Read it as a summer house, not a showpiece — the shaded gallery in front of the dining room, the tiled surfaces, the thick brick: all of it answers a Barcelona August.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Read the facade in strips

    Read the facade in strips

    The lane is too narrow to take the house in at once, so read it in strips. Start at the iron gate: the same fan-palm leaf, cast again and again, until your eye stops registering it. Then follow one vertical band of wall up through brick, tile and marigold to the turret, and step along and do it again.

  2. 2

    Hunt the birds in the dining room

    Hunt the birds in the dining room

    In the dining room keep your eyes at picture-rail height and walk the whole perimeter before looking at anything else. Ivy and cherry branches climb the walls and cross onto the ceiling with birds worked in among them, some flat, some in relief. Count them before the tiled floor pulls your gaze back down.

  3. 3

    Tip your head back in the smoking room

    Tip your head back in the smoking room

    Step into the small smoking room, stand under the middle of the ceiling and look straight up. Gilded papier-mâché cells hang down in blue and gold, cell inside cell. Hold still: in the low light the depth only opens up once your eyes adjust, and the ceiling seems to come closer.

  4. 4

    Finish at the top of the house

    Finish at the top of the house

    Save the top of the house for last. On the terrace the chimneys and the tiled turret come within arm's reach instead of the distant silhouette you saw from the street. Then look outward: later apartment blocks press in on every side, taller than the villa they grew up around, with almost nothing left of its garden.

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