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El Raval

El Raval

Barcelona City Guide
Neighborhood · El Raval (Ciutat Vella)SpainBarcelona,Spain

A square kilometre holding fifty thousand people, the densest quarter in Barcelona, cut through by an avenue opened where five blocks were demolished.

El Raval is about a square kilometre of the tightest housing in Barcelona, with roughly fifty thousand people in it, which makes it one of the most densely populated quarters in Europe. Cut straight through the middle of it is the Rambla del Raval, a wide palm-lined avenue opened in 1999 where five blocks of housing used to stand. Most of the residents were rehoused a few streets away. Botero's enormous bronze cat sits at one end of it. This was where the city put whatever it did not want inside the walls: hospitals, convents, then in the nineteenth century the factories and the people who worked in them. For a century it was also the most political ground in Barcelona, and in July 1909 its streets carried barricades and burning convents. A quarter of a century on, the avenue works: the Sunday market sets up on it and children play there. It has also drawn a hotel, a film archive and rising rents, and the argument over who the surgery was for has never really stopped.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Late weekday morning is the quarter at work — grocers, bakeries and fabric shops are all open, the bars are local rather than touring, and the streets are busy without being a crowd.
  • Stay on the wide streets after dark — the lower blocks towards the sea have a persistent street-drug and pickpocketing problem, and the risk is in the alleys rather than on the main lines.
  • The second-hand shops are on one street — Carrer de la Riera Baixa is a run of vintage clothing and record shops, busiest on Saturday, and it is where the quarter's own weekend happens.
  • Shoot the ground floors, not the skyline — nothing here is tall or picturesque from a distance, and everything worth a frame is at eye level: shutters, doorways, shopfronts, hands at work.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Take the avenue end to end, then one alley

    Take the avenue end to end, then one alley

    Start at Botero's cat and follow the Rambla del Raval to its far end: wide, planted, open to the sky. Then turn into the tight blocks between Carrer de l'Hospital and Carrer de Sant Pau, stop in the middle of a lane and look straight up. Balconies almost meet overhead, laundry crosses from one side to the other, and the strip of sky is a few metres wide. That contrast is the whole 1999 operation, and the density it was cut to relieve, walked in about four minutes.

  2. 2

    Take a table on Carrer del Doctor Dou

    Take a table on Carrer del Doctor Dou

    The upper Raval has a run of narrow streets north of the museum where the ground floors are workshops, small bookshops and bars with three tables outside. Sit for half an hour on a weekday and count how many people greet each other. It is the clearest evidence that this is still somebody's neighbourhood.

  3. 3

    Buy something from a counter you cannot read

    Buy something from a counter you cannot read

    Pick a grocer or a bakery on one of the side streets where the sign is not in Catalan or Spanish and go in. Pointing works. It is the most direct way to meet the quarter as it actually is rather than as it is described, and it costs almost nothing.

Watch

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