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Cirque de Mafate

Cirque de Mafate

PeaksRéunionRéunion

An amphitheatre of walls on Réunion holding ten hamlets no road reaches, where every sack of cement arrives on a back or under a helicopter.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Oct

The austral winter dry season: skies clear, trails firm and every îlet reachable on foot.



Year-round No road reaches the ten îlets: their residents, gîtes and remparts stand every day, supplied by helicopter and the postman's back. The cloud sea, river levels and which trails are open shift with the season.

Cirque de Mafate is the only inhabited corner of Réunion that no road reaches. Fewer than a thousand people live inside this amphitheatre, and everything they own came in on someone's back or slung beneath a helicopter. Sheer walls called remparts close the cirque on every side, and its only breach is the Rivière des Galets. Stand on the rim at Maïdo at first light and the floor lies under a white lid of cloud, ridges and roofs breaking through it, until the cloud climbs the wall and closes the view for the day. Ten hamlets, the îlets, are scattered across green shelves inside: La Nouvelle, Marla, Roche Plate, Grand Place, Aurère. Life in them runs on solar panels and batteries, groceries and cement arrive by helicopter rotation, and a nurse walks a round between them. You go in on foot, or you fly. The gentlest way down is from Col des Bœufs, through the Plaine des Tamarins, a forest of tamarin trees hung with pale lichen, and on to La Nouvelle. Longer trails link the rest, and the walking is the whole experience: hours of switchbacks between hamlets, with the remparts standing over you the entire time. The basin was gouged out of Piton des Neiges, the dormant 3,070-metre volcano that built this half of the island. It is still often called a caldera, but geologists read it differently now. Vast landslides tore away the volcano's flank, and Réunion's extraordinary rain then spent millennia washing the rubble out to sea. That isolation made it a refuge: in the 18th and 19th centuries escaped slaves, the marrons, climbed in because slave-hunters would not follow, and the poor settlers who came after them stayed.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Be on the rim before eight in the morning — cloud rises off the coast and usually shuts the Maïdo and Cap Noir views between nine and ten, however clear the dawn looked.
  • Col des Bœufs is the gentle door in — roughly two hours down to La Nouvelle, where every other route means a long, steep day on the ramparts.
  • Book a gîte weeks ahead — the îlets share only a few dozen beds, half board is the norm, and weekends fill first; there is no arriving and hoping.
  • Stay out of the riverbeds when it rains — the Rivière des Galets and its ravines rise within minutes, and it is the crossings, not the cliffs, that strand hikers.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Take in the whole cirque from the Maïdo balcony

    Take in the whole cirque from the Maïdo balcony

    The rim road ends at a belvedere 2,200 metres up, straight above the cirque floor. Come at first light, before the cloud climbs the wall: ridges, roofs and green shelves break through a white lid a kilometre below you. Cap Noir, further round the rim, looks down the cirque's one breach instead.

  2. 2

    Walk in over Col des Bœufs, through the tamarin forest

    Walk in over Col des Bœufs, through the tamarin forest

    From the Col des Bœufs car park the path drops into the Plaine des Tamarins, a high forest of gnarled tamarin trees trailing pale lichen, and on down to La Nouvelle. It takes about two hours and is the easiest door into the cirque. Keep walking and the waymarked GR trails carry you îlet to îlet for days, each col opening on a valley deeper than the last.

  3. 3

    Follow the Rivière des Galets, the cirque's only way out

    Follow the Rivière des Galets, the cirque's only way out

    Every drop of water in Mafate leaves through this one riverbed, and so can you: from Deux Bras the route works up the boulders and braided channels of the gorge with the remparts closing overhead. Upstream at Trois Roches the river drops into a black fissure in the rock and disappears out of sight. Check the forecast first — a filling ravine is the last place you want to be.

  4. 4

    Cross the remparts by helicopter

    Cross the remparts by helicopter

    There are two ways into Mafate, and this is the other one. A scenic flight lifts you over the rim and runs the walls, the hamlets appearing as a scatter of tin roofs on ledges with no road leading to them. The same aircraft keep those roofs supplied, ferrying in gas bottles, cement and groceries.

  5. 5

    Sleep in a village no road reaches

    Sleep in a village no road reaches

    In La Nouvelle or Marla the day ends when the light does. Dinner comes at one hour in the gîte, the lamps run off a solar panel, and after dark the loudest thing is the wind in the ravine. You wake up in a place where every plank of every house was flown in or carried in on a back.

Watch

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