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Piton de la Fournaise

Piton de la Fournaise

PeaksRéunionRéunion
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A volcano on Réunion in the Indian Ocean erupting over 150 times since the 1600s, walked across its lava fields to look into the crater.

September·Peaking now

May–Oct

The dry austral winter brings cool, near-cloudless mornings over the Enclos, when the Pas de Bellecombe trek to Formica Leo and the Dolomieu rim is at its best. Dawns above 2,300m can freeze; start early, before cloud blows in from the east.


Year-round One of Earth's most active volcanoes erupts on average about once a year, in no fixed month; the dry season, May to October, is firmest for the caldera trek — check its status first.

Piton de la Fournaise is a volcano on the island of Réunion, a French island in the Indian Ocean east of Madagascar, and it has erupted more than 150 times since the 1600s, one of the most active volcanoes on Earth and one of the few you can walk across between eruptions. The island is really two volcanoes stacked on the seabed, and the Fournaise is the young, still-burning one, rising 2,632 metres on the eastern side. The road climbs through green farmland into a moonscape of red and black cinder, the Plaine des Sables, and ends at a balcony on the rim of the Enclos Fouqué, the caldera that holds the volcano; from Pas de Bellecombe a steep metal staircase drops you straight down the cliff onto the caldera floor, and the green island disappears behind the wall. Ahead lies a plain of ropy black lava, marked with white paint splashes to show the way, and in the middle of it the little scoria cone of Formica Leo, left by an eighteenth-century eruption and climbed in ten minutes. The walk across the Enclos to the summit takes about five hours there and back, over lava that crunches and rings underfoot, some of it only a few years old, to the rim of Dolomieu, the summit crater whose floor dropped more than 300 metres in a single collapse in 2007 and now fumes from vents in the dark. When the volcano is active the caldera closes and the show moves to the roadside: lava fountains and glowing rivers burn orange against the dark, watched from viewpoints far below, and on the eastern flank, the Grand Brûlé, the flows regularly cross the coastal highway and pour into the sea, so the road has been rebuilt over fresh rock again and again. Réunion is a French department, so the volcano has an observatory, a helicopter service and a bakery in the nearest village. Piton de la Fournaise is a volcano that erupts most years, and between them it lets you walk to the edge.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Check the volcano's alert status before you set out — eruptions close the Enclos trails without warning, and the OVPF observatory posts the live access rules that decide how far you can go.
  • Start at first light — mornings are clear, but by midday cloud blows in from the east and swallows the caldera rim, so the whole crater view can vanish before noon.
  • The drive is half the experience — stop to walk out onto the Plaine des Sables; its single dirt track over red volcanic sand is rough but fine in an ordinary car.
  • Carry far more water than feels necessary — the trek from Pas de Bellecombe across the lava is long, shadeless and above 2,300 metres, and there is nowhere to refill along the way.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Trek across the Enclos lava fields

    Trek across the Enclos lava fields

    From the balcony at Pas de Bellecombe a steep metal staircase drops you straight down the caldera cliff onto the floor of the Enclos Fouqué, and the green island you drove up through disappears behind the wall. From there a marked trail crosses a sea of hardened black lava that runs for kilometres toward the summit cones. Splashes of paint on the rock are the only route markers, and the scale of the empty plain only registers once you are out in the middle of it.

  2. 2

    Climb the Formica Leo cone

    Climb the Formica Leo cone

    Scramble up the little scoria cone that sits alone on the lava plain, left by an eruption in the eighteenth century. From its narrow rim you look straight down into a small twin crater tinted red and ochre — a miniature of the giant volcano rising behind it.

  3. 3

    Look into the fuming Dolomieu crater

    Look into the fuming Dolomieu crater

    Reach the rim of Dolomieu, the summit crater whose floor dropped more than 300 metres in a single collapse in 2007. Sulphurous steam still leaks from cracks around the edge, and the sheer walls fall away into a pit far too wide to take in at once.

  4. 4

    Watch a night eruption from the roadside

    When Piton de la Fournaise is active, lava fountains and glowing rivers burn orange against the dark, sometimes visible from viewpoints and roads far below the summit. Réunion turns out to watch: families park along the mountain roads and wait for the earth to catch fire. Eruptions are unpredictable, so this is the reward for being on the island at the right moment.

Watch

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