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Île aux Cerfs

Île aux Cerfs

IslandsMauritiusFlacq,Mauritius

An 87-hectare islet off Mauritius inside a reef-flat lagoon shallow enough to wade far out, with casuarina groves, a golf course and no residents.

September·Quiet month

May–Sep

The southeast trades return and roughen the windward lagoon, stirring sand through the water; the falls thin over black rock and the sea dips to 24°C. Nothing closes — the island runs nine to six all year — but swim on the sheltered, mainland-facing side.



Year-round The reef-flat turquoise lagoon, white coral sand and casuarina shade are here every month, and the island runs year-round, nine to six; what shifts is the wind, the water's warmth and the waterfall's flow.

Île aux Cerfs is an islet of 87 hectares off the east coast of Mauritius, in the Flacq district, inside a lagoon over reef flats shallow enough to wade far out, with casuarina groves, white beaches, a golf course reached only by boat and no residents, and it is crossed to from the village of Trou d'Eau Douce by speedboat for a day on the sand, with a waterfall stop on the way. The island takes its name from the Java deer that the Dutch shipped into Mauritius in 1639 as a living larder for passing ships, long gone from the islet, and it belongs to a hotel group, which runs the restaurants and the eighteen holes laid out between volcanic outcrops and nine lakes, the players crossing the lagoon by shuttle with their clubs; the boats leave the mainland village all morning, and almost every run stops first at the Grand River South East waterfall, where the river that drains the island's wet high centre drops over black rock into the lagoon, at full roar after the summer rains of February and March and a thread by the dry winter. The lagoon is shallow enough to snorkel straight off the sand, and the interest is where dark basalt breaks through the white floor and the fish gather. The landing beaches near the restaurants fill by midday with the day boats and the parasailing, but beyond the last restaurant the crowds thin fast and the shoreline turns wild, bare sand, casuarina forest and no one on it, walked round to the island's empty end in an hour. From June to September the southeast trade wind chops the windward lagoon and stirs sand through the water, and once it eases around October the lagoon goes glass-flat and the shallows clear. The east coast behind the island holds the sugar fields and the fishing villages, with the mountains of the interior on the skyline. Île aux Cerfs is an islet in a lagoon, and the far end of its beach is the reason to walk.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Take the first boat out. The island opens at nine, and by late morning the main beach fills with day-trippers from the mainland resorts; the first hour ashore is the quiet one.
  • Check that the waterfall stop is included. Most operators at Trou d'Eau Douce detour up the Grand River South East on the way out, but the cheapest transfers skip it.
  • When the trade winds blow, swim on the sheltered side. The shore facing the mainland stays calmer than the exposed flanks, and wind-stirred sand clouds the water far less there.
  • Keep walking past the last beach bar. Most visitors never leave the strip near the jetty, so ten minutes on foot buys long, empty sand at the far end.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross from Trou d'Eau Douce by speedboat

    Cross from Trou d'Eau Douce by speedboat

    The island has no bridge and no residents, so every visit starts in a boat at the mainland village of Trou d'Eau Douce. Most run first up the Grand River South East and cut the engine under a wide fall dropping over black volcanic rock, loudest after the summer rains.

  2. 2

    Snorkel the reef flats over black basalt

    Snorkel the reef flats over black basalt

    The lagoon is shallow enough to snorkel straight off the sand, and the interest is where dark volcanic rock breaks through the white floor. Parrotfish and small reef fish work the edges in a couple of metres of water.

  3. 3

    Walk out to the island's empty end

    Walk out to the island's empty end

    Beyond the last restaurant the crowds thin fast and the shoreline turns wild — bare sand, casuarina forest and no one on it. It is the same lagoon as the main beach, without the boats.

Watch

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