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Le Morne & Chamarel

Le Morne & Chamarel

PeaksMauritiusRivière Noire,Mauritius
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A 556-metre Mauritian monolith where people fleeing slavery hid in caves, beside dunes of seven-coloured earth and a lagoon that fakes an underwater waterfall.

September·Peaking now

May–Oct

Dry winter is Le Morne's strongest season. Steady south-east trade winds, at their strongest from June to August, make it a leading kite-surfing spot. The One Eye wave breaks for surfers from May to September. The air is cool and clear, which suits the guided scramble to the summit. The sea cools from about 27°C to about 24°C.


Year-round The basalt monolith, the seven-coloured earths and the underwater-'waterfall' illusion are here year-round; Mauritius's cooler, drier months, May to November, suit the climb.

Le Morne Brabant is a 556-metre basalt monolith standing at the southwestern tip of Mauritius, with a calm lagoon at its foot and an illusion in the water beside it. For decades the mountain was a hiding place. Through the 18th and early 19th centuries, people fleeing slavery — maroons — built shelters in its caves and on its near-inaccessible summit. UNESCO inscribed it in 2008 as a cultural landscape for that history. Off the peninsula below, seen from the air, pale channels of sand appear to pour over the rim of the island's shelf and cascade into the deep like a waterfall on the ocean floor. Nothing is actually falling: strong currents drag light lagoon sand over an edge that plunges toward a 4,000-metre abyss, and the contrast of turquoise shallows against dark water finishes the trick. A short drive inland, the land turns just as strange. At Chamarel, the Seven Coloured Earths rise in bare dunes of red, brown, violet and green — clay left as ancient lava rotted in the tropical heat. The iron and aluminium in it repel one another, so the bands never muddy, even after rain. Minutes away, the Chamarel waterfall drops about 100 metres off a basalt cliff, the highest fall on the island. Down on the coast you can swim in a calm turquoise lagoon fringed with coconut palms. Just beyond the reef a wave called One Eye peels for hundreds of metres and draws expert kitesurfers from around the world. Its name comes from a gap in the mountain that lines up like an eye. The summit trail is steep and rocky near the top, best climbed with a guide, and it lays the whole island at your feet.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Go up to see the underwater-waterfall illusion. The cascading effect only reads from a helicopter or drone high above the peninsula, sharpest near midday when the sun lights the shallows.
  • Aim for the dry winter, May to December. Days are cooler and clearer, and steady trade winds bring kitesurfers to Le Morne all season; summer is hot, wet and cyclone-prone.
  • The summit push is a scramble, not a stroll. The final rocky section above the plateau is steep and exposed, so hire a local guide and start early before the heat builds.
  • One Eye is for experts only. The wave breaking outside the reef is fast and unforgiving; beginners and swimmers stay inside the calm, shallow lagoon.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk the Seven Coloured Earths at Chamarel

    Walk the Seven Coloured Earths at Chamarel

    Follow the boardwalks around bare dunes rippling in red, brown, violet and green, where the colours hold their bands even after rain. Nearby you can meet the park's giant tortoises and look out over the island's tallest waterfall. One geopark ticket covers the whole loop.

  2. 2

    Swim the calm lagoon under Le Morne

    Swim the calm lagoon under Le Morne

    Wade into shallow, bath-warm turquoise water sheltered by the reef, with coconut palms behind you and the monolith rising overhead. It is one of the gentlest swims on the island, safe long after the wind picks up offshore. Follow the reef edge with a mask and parrotfish and rays move over the coral, the colours reading bright even in a light swell. Stay until the sun drops behind the peninsula, when the basalt turns to a black cut-out against an orange sky and the lagoon goes mirror-flat.

  3. 3

    Kitesurf the Le Morne lagoon

    Kitesurf the Le Morne lagoon

    Ride the huge flat lagoon that has made Le Morne one of the world's great kite spots, with steady winter winds and room for every level. Beyond the reef, experts chase One Eye, a fast left-hand wave that peels for hundreds of metres.

  4. 4

    Fly over the underwater-waterfall illusion

    Fly over the underwater-waterfall illusion

    Take a short helicopter or seaplane loop off the peninsula and watch pale sand appear to pour over the edge of the shelf into deep blue, like a waterfall on the seabed. From the air, the scale and the colours finally make sense.

  5. 5

    Climb Le Morne Brabant to the maroons' refuge

    Climb Le Morne Brabant to the maroons' refuge

    Hike the steep forest path up the monolith that runaway slaves once used as a stronghold, passing a memorial to their fight for freedom. The final rocky section needs a guide, and the summit opens the whole southwest coast and its reefs below.

Watch

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