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Geli Ali Beg Waterfall

Geli Ali Beg Waterfall

WaterfallsErbil Governorate, Kurdistan Region, Iraq
August·Peaking now

Jun–Aug

As the flood passes the curtain thins to white ropes and the pool clears to green; battered boats are hauled right under the falling water. While the plains bake past 43°C the gorge stays cool, and Iraqi families pack the rocks — the busiest months.



Year-round The narrow limestone gorge, its layered cliffs and the cliff-cut Hamilton Road drive from Erbil are here every day of the year; the water's force, the boats and the crowds turn with the season.

Geli Ali Beg is the waterfall Iraqis carry in their pockets: printed on the five-dinar note of 1978-1990, and on the 5,000-dinar note in circulation today. The drop itself is modest — roughly a dozen metres of water over a limestone lip in a narrow gorge of the Zagros foothills, where the Rawanduz, Sidakan and Khalifan rivers come together. The name belongs to the gorge rather than to the water. Geli Ali Beg means Ali Beg's gorge, and it remembers Mîr Elî Beg, the Yazidi prince of Sheikhan. He was executed in this valley in late 1833 on the orders of Mir Muhammad of Rawanduz, who had marched some ten thousand Yazidi captives to his capital and ordered them to convert to Islam. For a long time the falls were hearsay to most Iraqis, walled off by cliffs; then, between 1928 and 1932, a New Zealand engineer cut a road through the Rawanduz canyon, and the gorge finally got the drive that still delivers people to it. What waits at the bottom depends on the month. In the spring melt the fall runs brown and thunderous and swamps the rocks; by late summer the same lip splits into thin white ropes down a mossy wall and the pool settles into clear green. That is when the boats go out — battered inflatables hauled along ropes strung across the water until they sit right under the curtain, everyone aboard soaked and shouting. A railed walkway keeps drier visitors at eye level with the drop. This is no wilderness: around half a million people come each year, nearly all of them Iraqi, and tea and kebab stalls line the approach while families spread lunch on the rocks. The gorge stays cool while the plains below bake, and the cliff-hugging Hamilton Road above is half the reason people make the drive at all.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Decide which waterfall you want — the spring flood is loudest but buries the base in brown spray, while the green pool, with boats under the curtain, only appears once the flow drops.
  • Anything you carry onto a boat comes back wet — hand your phone and camera to someone on the walkway first, because the boatmen park you directly beneath the falling water.
  • Fridays and public holidays belong to Kurdish and Iraqi families, who fill the rocks and the walkway from mid-morning. Come on a weekday, or arrive early for space at the rail.
  • The approach is the attraction — the Hamilton Road claws along the cliffs of the Rawanduz canyon; stop at the lay-bys and the gorge delivers its drama long before the waterfall does.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Follow the water down the stepped chute into the main drop

    Follow the water down the stepped chute into the main drop

    Above the plunge the stream comes down a narrow chute, spreads across a limestone shelf and then tips over the wide lip in one white sheet. In high water the two stages run together and the whole staircase disappears under the flood.

  2. 2

    Ride an inflatable to the foot of the curtain

    Ride an inflatable to the foot of the curtain

    Boatmen at the bank pull battered inflatables along ropes strung across the pool until you are sitting directly beneath the falling water. It costs a few thousand dinars, lasts a few minutes, and there is no version of it where you stay dry.

  3. 3

    Take the railed walkway to eye level with the drop

    Take the railed walkway to eye level with the drop

    A walkway with rustic timber-style railings runs along the foot of the cliff to a point level with the falling water. It is how grandparents, toddlers and anyone who would rather not board a raft still gets close enough to feel the spray.

  4. 4

    Eat kebab in the stall lane on a Friday

    Eat kebab in the stall lane on a Friday

    The approach path is lined with tea and kebab stalls under thatched shades, and on Fridays it fills with families out from Erbil and Soran. Children tear up and down with plastic water guns while lunch is spread out on the rocks by the river.

  5. 5

    Drive the Hamilton Road through the Rawanduz canyon

    Drive the Hamilton Road through the Rawanduz canyon

    The highway to the falls is a 1930s feat of blasting that clings to the canyon wall, swinging above a gorge hundreds of metres deep. Pull over at the lay-bys on the way in: the road delivers the drama long before the waterfall does.

Watch

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