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Geli Ali Beg Waterfall

Geli Ali Beg Waterfall

WaterfallsIraqErbil Governorate, Kurdistan Region,Iraq

A waterfall in a Zagros gorge in Iraqi Kurdistan, printed on the country's banknotes for decades, reached by a road cut through the canyon.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Nov

The water is at its lowest and thinnest, but the heat eases to mild and the crowds fall away, leaving the rail and rocks calm. Boats wind down through October; the first rains by late November begin to swell the flow again.



Year-round The narrow limestone gorge, its layered cliffs and the cliff-cut Hamilton Road drive from Erbil are here every day of the year; the water's force, the boats and the crowds turn with the season.

Geli Ali Beg Waterfall is a fall of some 80 metres in a gorge of the Zagros mountains in the Kurdistan region of northern Iraq, near Rawanduz in Erbil governorate, printed on the country's banknotes for decades, and it is reached by the Hamilton Road, a highway blasted through the canyon in the 1930s, and visited on Fridays by families from Erbil who ride inflatables to the foot of the curtain and eat kebab in the lane of stalls. The fall is where the streams of the Rawanduz, Sidakan and Khalifan rivers come together and drop over the lip of the gorge, coming down a narrow chute above the plunge, spreading across a limestone shelf and tipping over the wide lip in one white sheet into a pool, and nobody agrees on its height, since the figures run from 80 metres to over a hundred depending on what is counted; it was on the five-dinar note of Saddam's Iraq and is on the Kurdish region's tourist posters. Boatmen pull battered inflatables along ropes strung across the pool until the passengers sit directly beneath the falling water, for a few minutes, and there is no version of it that stays dry. The Hamilton Road is the way in, built between 1928 and 1932 under the New Zealand engineer Archibald Hamilton to link Erbil to the Iranian border, clinging to the wall of the Rawanduz canyon and swinging above a gorge hundreds of metres deep, and the falls lie a few kilometres beyond the town. In spring the Zagros snowmelt swells the rivers and the fall turns brown and deafening, heavy enough to swamp the rocks around the pool, and once the flood passes the curtain thins to white strands and the pool clears to a cool green, with the gorge far cooler than the baking plains below. The approach path is lined with tea and kebab stalls under thatched shades. Geli Ali Beg is the waterfall on the money, and the road to it is the other monument.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Decide which waterfall you want — the spring flood is loudest but buries the base in brown spray, while the green pool, with boats under the curtain, only appears once the flow drops.
  • Anything you carry onto a boat comes back wet — hand your phone and camera to someone on the walkway first, because the boatmen park you directly beneath the falling water.
  • Fridays and public holidays belong to Kurdish and Iraqi families, who fill the rocks and the walkway from mid-morning. Come on a weekday, or arrive early for space at the rail.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Follow the water down the stepped chute into the main drop

    Follow the water down the stepped chute into the main drop

    Above the plunge the stream comes down a narrow chute, spreads across a limestone shelf and then tips over the wide lip in one white sheet. In high water the two stages run together and the whole staircase disappears under the flood.

  2. 2

    Ride an inflatable to the foot of the curtain

    Ride an inflatable to the foot of the curtain

    Boatmen pull battered inflatables along ropes strung across the pool until you are sitting directly beneath the falling water; it lasts a few minutes, and there is no version of it where you stay dry. If you would rather not board a raft, a walkway with rustic timber railings runs along the foot of the cliff to a point level with the falling water. That is how grandparents and toddlers still get close enough to feel the spray.

  3. 3

    Eat kebab in the stall lane on a Friday

    Eat kebab in the stall lane on a Friday

    The approach path is lined with tea and kebab stalls under thatched shades, and on Fridays it fills with families out from Erbil and Soran. Children tear up and down with plastic water guns while lunch is spread out on the rocks by the river.

  4. 4

    Drive the Hamilton Road through the Rawanduz canyon

    Drive the Hamilton Road through the Rawanduz canyon

    The highway to the falls is a 1930s feat of blasting that clings to the canyon wall, swinging above a gorge hundreds of metres deep. Pull over at the lay-bys on the way in: the road delivers the drama long before the waterfall does.

Watch

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