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Mount Ararat

Mount Ararat

PeaksAğrı, Türkiye
August·Peaking now

Jul–Aug

July and August are the summit season: the settled, warmest weeks, minimal snow low down, every camp running and the standard crampon walk-up at its most reliable. Kurdish herding families are camped across the lower slopes.



Year-round The permanent summit ice cap and twin cones stand over the plain every day of the year, the loftiest peak for hundreds of kilometres around; the snow cover, herders' camps and climbing window are seasonal.

Mount Ararat is a volcano, and the last time it erupted it killed thousands. On 2 July 1840 a steam blast tore open its northern flank, melted part of the summit ice and sent rock and meltwater roaring down the Ahora Gorge; the debris buried the village of Akhuri and the monastery of St. Jacob, and the magnitude 7.4 earthquake that came with it left up to 10,000 people dead across the region. Nothing about the mountain looks violent today. A broad white dome rises 5,137 metres above eastern Turkey, with the sharp cone of Little Ararat, 3,896 metres, standing beside it, and together they make the double-humped outline visible from every road on the plain. It looks impossibly large because it is genuinely alone: no higher summit stands within 379 kilometres, and the mountain climbs roughly three vertical kilometres straight out of flat farmland. Genesis says Noah's ark came to rest on "the mountains of Ararat" — a region, not a peak — but the name settled here anyway. You cannot simply turn up and walk. The mountain sits in a border zone within sight of Iran and Armenia, so every climber needs a government permit and a licensed guide, and only the southern route is issued. The path leaves Doğubayazıt and climbs past the summer camps of Kurdish herding families, pitched near running water wherever the sheep can graze; you sleep at Green Camp near 3,200 metres, then again at 4,200. The summit push starts around midnight, crampons on ice in the dark, and at first light the mountain lays its own long shadow far across the plain below. That ice is going. The cap measured 8 square kilometres in 1976 and 5.7 by 2011, and glaciologists expect the permanent ice to turn seasonal within a few decades.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • You cannot just turn up and walk — this border zone by Iran and Armenia means every climber needs a permit and a licensed guide, and only the southern route is ever issued.
  • The window runs from roughly mid-June to mid-October — July and August are the busiest weeks on the southern route, while September nights are colder but the mountain is quieter.
  • Altitude, not technique, is what turns people back — the standard line is a walk-up with crampons near the top, but you climb from 4,200 metres to 5,137 in a single night.
  • Give the herders' guard dogs a wide berth — the families camped on the lower slopes keep big Anatolian dogs against wolves, and they will come at a stranger who walks into camp.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross the ice cap to the 5,137-metre summit

    Cross the ice cap to the 5,137-metre summit

    You leave the high camp around midnight, head-torches strung out on the dark slope, and put crampons on where the rock ends and the ice cap begins. The last stretch is a broad, gently tilted dome of ice. On a clear morning the summit hands you the plain three kilometres below and the mountain's own shadow thrown across it — though plenty of teams top out in cloud and see nothing at all.

  2. 2

    Watch the two cones line up from the plain

    Watch the two cones line up from the plain

    Ararat is a mountain you should also see from a distance. From the flat farmland around Doğubayazıt and Iğdır, the great ice-capped dome and the sharp cone of Little Ararat line up into a double-humped outline that fills half the sky. Early morning, before the day's haze builds, is when the silhouette is sharpest.

  3. 3

    Look out at the plain from the Ishak Pasha Palace

    Look out at the plain from the Ishak Pasha Palace

    Completed in 1784 on a rock terrace above Doğubayazıt, the palace mixes Seljuk, Ottoman and Persian stonework and still keeps its carved portals and honey-coloured courtyards. It is the one stop here that asks nothing of your lungs: walk to the edge of the terrace and the whole plain opens below you, with Ararat away to the north.

  4. 4

    Pitch a tent at 4,200 metres above the haze

    Pitch a tent at 4,200 metres above the haze

    The upper camp is a scatter of tents wedged among lava blocks, with no grass left at this height. In the evening the plains turn gold three kilometres below you and the haze settles into a flat sea you look down on. A few hours later the same tents empty out for the midnight start.

  5. 5

    Stand on the boat-shaped mound at Durupınar

    Stand on the boat-shaped mound at Durupınar

    Some thirty kilometres from Ararat's summit, on the slopes of a different volcano entirely, a mound of hardened mud sits in the unmistakable outline of a hull, roughly 150 metres long. Ark hunters have promoted it since a 1959 aerial survey; geologists, creationist and secular alike, agree it is a natural formation. Go anyway — the shape is genuinely uncanny.

Watch

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