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Lake Van

Lake Van

LakesTürkiyeVan,Türkiye

Eastern Türkiye's soda lake, the largest on Earth: soapy to the touch, one fish found nowhere else, a tenth-century church on its island.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

Early September the water still holds near 21°C, swimmable and quiet, and on one day the year's single Divine Liturgy is sung inside the island church. Through October the plateau cools and the almond leaves turn; boats sail less often as the season winds down.



Year-round The soda water, the submerged carbonate towers and the carved island church stand here every day; the fish run, the almond blossom, the summer swim and the winter snow are what turn with the season.

Lake Van is the largest soda lake on Earth, in eastern Türkiye, 3,700 square kilometres of water at 1,640 metres between the volcanoes of Süphan and Nemrut, soapy to the touch, home to one fish found nowhere else, with a tenth-century Armenian church on its island of Akdamar, and it is swum in July and August, crossed by boat to the church and eaten beside at the breakfast tables of the city of Van. The lake has no outlet, so the water that flows in concentrates into a soda that lathers with the oils on the skin, soft and slippery to wade into, and the carbonate towers rising from its bed are the largest microbialites ever found, some forty metres tall and still growing; the only fish is the pearl mullet, which leaves the soda water in May and June to spawn in the freshwater streams, leaping the Muradiye rapids in silver bursts, with fishing banned from mid-April to mid-July to let it through. Boats leave the Gevaş jetty when they fill and cross in twenty minutes to Akdamar, where the Church of the Holy Cross of 921 stands among almond trees, its outer walls carved with Bible scenes, vines and animals in relief, and the almonds flower white across the island from late March. The city of Van is the base, and its breakfast is a regional institution, the herbed cheese otlu peynir, kavut, murtuğa, honey with clotted cream and a crowd of small dishes arriving at once with dark tea. The Van cat, chalk white, often with one blue eye and one amber, is the one cat that gets into the water and swims. The lake is calm before the day's wind gets up, when Süphan stands in it at first light, and the water warms enough to swim only in July and August, staying a cold, windswept inland sea the rest of the year. Lake Van is a sea of soda in the mountains, and the church on its island is the reason for the boat.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The fish run follows the water temperature, not the calendar — a cold spring can push it back by weeks, so ask in Muradiye or Erciş before you drive out to the streams.
  • Boats to Akdamar leave the Gevaş jetty when they fill up — in summer that is a short wait, but off season you may have to gather a group or pay for the empty seats.
  • Rinse off after a swim. The soda dries to a slick film on skin and hair and stings badly if it gets into your eyes, so carry fresh water down to the beach with you.
  • Get in from the sheltered bays at Edremit or Gevaş; this is open water with real currents, and the province warns swimmers off certain stretches of shore every summer.
  • One Divine Liturgy a year is sung in the island church, on a day in early September — pilgrims fill the boats then, while on an ordinary morning the carvings are yours alone.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross to Akdamar and read its walls

    Cross to Akdamar and read its walls

    Boats leave the Gevaş jetty when they fill up — a short wait in summer, a gathered group off season — and the crossing takes twenty minutes. Ashore, walk the outside of the church before you go in: the carving runs the whole way round the pink-red tufa and only reads panel by panel. On an ordinary morning the wall is yours alone; the one September liturgy fills every boat.

  2. 2

    Swim in the soda water

    Swim in the soda water

    Wade in and the water feels wrong in a good way: soft, slippery, faintly soapy, because the dissolved soda lathers with the oils on your skin. It is not the sea — Lake Van carries less salt than seawater, so you will not float any better here. Rinse afterwards, before the film dries.

  3. 3

    Catch Süphan's reflection at first light

    Catch Süphan's reflection at first light

    The lake is usually calm before the day's wind gets up. Come down to the water early and the snow cone of Süphan, the volcano across on the north shore, lies flat on a surface with no ripple in it. The same stillness puts the church's red stone upside down in the shallows.

  4. 4

    Begin the day with a Van breakfast

    Begin the day with a Van breakfast

    Van's breakfast is a regional institution: the herbed cheese otlu peynir, kavut, murtuğa, honey with clotted cream and a crowd of small dishes arriving at once, all of it chased with dark tea. Sit down to the full spread by the lake and you will not need lunch.

  5. 5

    Stand at the rapids during the pearl mullet run

    Stand at the rapids during the pearl mullet run

    In May and June the only fish in the lake leaves it. Pearl mullet crowd the stream mouths and throw themselves at the Muradiye falls, over and over, driven to fresh water because their eggs cannot survive the soda. The gulls know the calendar and line the banks to feed.

Watch

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