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Fountain of Ahmed III

Fountain of Ahmed III

Istanbul City Guide
Historic · SultanahmetIstanbul, Turkey

The Fountain of Ahmed III carries a poem that ends in the sultan's own words, inviting you to turn the tap, drink, and say a prayer for Ahmed Khan. It was built in 1728, on a spot where a Byzantine fountain is said to have stood before it. It belongs to the Tulip Era, a short stretch of peace when Istanbul turned its attention to gardens and to softer ornament. The building is a small marble pavilion rather than a plain basin in a wall. It is a square block with rounded corners, roofed by five low domes, and its deep eaves overhang the stone like the edge of a tent. A wall fountain faces each of the four directions, and the grilled kiosks at the corners, called sebils, once handed out water and sweet sherbet. The pavilion stands between the gate of Topkapı Palace and the flank of Hagia Sophia, and almost no part of its surface was left plain. Carved tulips, cypresses and vines fill every panel beneath bands of gilded calligraphy. Among the vines sit small bowls of fruit and flowers cut in low relief, the detail that marks the taste of the age. The taps are dry now and the sherbet is long gone, yet the pavilion still holds its corner of the square. It marks the point where Ottoman builders left plain classical lines behind for curves and dense floral carving.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Early morning is yours — before the palace draws its queues, the square in front of the gate is nearly empty and the tour groups have not yet claimed the corners. That is when the fountain feels like a building, not a backdrop.
  • Step back before you step close — up close the fountain is a wall of detail; the five domes and tent-like roof only resolve from across the square. Take in the silhouette first, then go read the stone.
  • Put your back to the palace gate — from there the fountain's wide eaves line up with the dome of Hagia Sophia rising behind, the one frame that shows what this corner of the city stacks together.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Circle all four faces

    Circle all four faces

    Start at the face toward Hagia Sophia and walk the fountain slowly, corner to corner. Each direction has its own basin, spout, and lines of verse, so the poem and the ornament shift as you circle. The palace-wall side is usually the calmest, a good place to end.

  2. 2

    Find the carved still-lifes

    Find the carved still-lifes

    Lean in close to the lower panels and hunt for the carved bowls of fruit and tulips tucked among the vines. They are easy to miss from a step back. Once you have found one, your eye starts catching them across the whole facade, each little bowl cut a touch differently.

  3. 3

    Catch the low light

    Catch the low light

    Come in the last hour before sunset and watch the light rake in under the wide eaves. The low angle picks out the gilded calligraphy and the deepest carving, throwing shadows that midday flattens away. Stay for the shift; the marble warms from white to honey as it fades.

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