The Feriköy Sunday antique market fills a plain concrete market hall in Şişli with row after row of folding tables. On them: Ottoman coins, film posters, Bakelite telephones, brass samovars, cracked vinyl, and photographs of strangers no one remembers. The hall smells of old paper and machine oil. Tea sellers weave between the stalls with swinging trays. Nothing carries a fixed price, so every purchase is a short, friendly negotiation, and you crouch and dig until a bundle of someone's handwritten postcards slides out of a shoebox.
The market began with dealers squeezed out of pricier antique districts and older flea grounds, who regrouped under this roof and turned it into a weekly memory bank for the city. Collectors, decorators and film-set dressers comb the rows before most of the city is awake, so the early hours are the serious ones. By late morning it fills with students, travellers tired of the Grand Bazaar, and Istanbullus who treat the walk between the tables as a weekly ritual.