Galata Bridge is the fifth bridge to stand at this narrow mouth of the Golden Horn, and its predecessor was not scrapped but towed away up the very water it once crossed. A span has linked the old imperial city to the merchant quarter of Galata since 1845, when a wooden bridge first joined the shores. The bascule bridge you walk today opened in 1994, its middle built to lift in the small hours so ships can pass. It carries a tram, cars, and a slow river of people across the top; underneath runs a second deck of fish restaurants facing the water.
You notice the fishermen first. They stand shoulder to shoulder along both rails at almost any hour, rods angled over the current, buckets of small silver fish at their feet. Ferries churn past below, trailing clouds of gulls, and the smell of grilling fish drifts up from the Eminönü quay. Look one way and Süleymaniye's domes rise over the old city; look the other and Galata Tower marks the hill. At sunset the whole channel turns copper, and the rods keep dipping into the dark.