Mihrimah Sultan Mosque stands hard against the old Üsküdar landing, the first stone to greet anyone stepping off a ferry. It looms over a square of simit sellers, tea glasses and wheeling pigeons, its broad overhanging eave still sheltering whoever waits below. A deep double porch wraps the front, and the whole building is lifted on a terrace above the quay. Inside, three half-domes open the hall to the south, east and west, while the wall facing the water is the one that stays flat.
Sinan finished it in the 1540s for Mihrimah, the only daughter of Suleiman the Magnificent and Hürrem, and he built in her name not one mosque but two. A much-loved story links the pair, and it starts with what her name means. She was the first Ottoman princess to raise a monumental mosque complex in the capital; a second minaret was a mark of dynastic rank, and this mosque has two. Restored and busy, it stays the anchor of the Asian shore's liveliest square, and the ferry crowd flows around it all day.