Pera Palace is a working grand hotel above the Golden Horn, and the Orient Express is the reason it exists. Inside, the Kubbeli Saloon rises into a run of stained-glass domes where afternoon tea has been poured for more than a century. You climb the same marble stair the old guests did, past tall mirrors and heavy chandeliers. Upstairs the corridors run to 115 guest rooms, and two of the numbered doors draw visitors of their own.
The hotel arm of the Wagons-Lits railway company raised the building, and the Levantine architect Alexandre Vallaury folded neoclassical, Art Nouveau and Ottoman motifs into one long facade. When it opened to guests in 1895 it brought comforts the city outside the palaces had never seen: electric light, hot running water and a passenger lift. The guest list since then reads like a roll-call of the age, from Greta Garbo and Hemingway to kings and reputed spies. It trades on memory rather than novelty, restored and deliberately kept in period.