Taksim Square is the open civic centre of modern Istanbul, a wide paved plaza where İstiklal Avenue ends and the red nostalgic tram turns around. The Republic Monument stands at its heart, a bronze group on a stone base finished in 1928. Its figures face two ways: one side recalls the years of war, the other the republic that followed. Around the plaza sit a modern mosque, the rebuilt Atatürk Cultural Center and the green edge of Gezi Park. The small stone water house that gave the square its name still stands at one corner, easy to walk past.
Crowds cross without pause — commuters, buskers, families, football fans on match nights, and much of the city on New Year's Eve. It is less pretty than busy: a place people meet at, pass through and remember, and the square has been the country's main stage for rallies and protests. Come for the pulse of contemporary Istanbul rather than for old stones. The plaza is bare and shadeless, so it is hardest in the middle of a summer afternoon.