Tünel is a ninety-second underground railway that climbs the steep hillside between Karaköy and the foot of İstiklal Avenue. You step into a compact carriage, wood-trimmed and painted the deep colours of an old railway, on a curved platform tucked below the street. The car tilts with the grade, tunnel walls slide past the windows, and before you have settled you are at the far end. The line rises roughly sixty metres in barely half a kilometre.
It has run since 1875, which makes it the second-oldest underground urban railway in the world after London's. The French engineer Eugène-Henri Gavand thought of it after watching crowds trudge up the slope between the waterfront and the heights of Pera. Rather than cut a road, he bored a tunnel and let a steam-driven cable haul two counterweighted cars past each other in the dark. Locals still ride it as an everyday shortcut, so you travel alongside commuters rather than only sightseers.