Yeldeğirmeni is a dense grid of old apartment houses above the Kadıköy shore, and its blank side walls have been painted building-high. You walk it without a map, looking up. A giant figure fills one wall, robotic creatures crawl across another, a painted face watches the street from several storeys up. The murals surface between laundry lines and corner grocers, never behind glass. They began in 2012, when the Mural Istanbul festival started handing the quarter's bare gable ends to Turkish and international artists.
The neighbourhood was already one of Kadıköy's oldest, built for railway and port workers and lived in by Greek, Armenian, Jewish and Muslim families, whose Art Nouveau doorways still open onto the lanes. Cafés, secondhand bookshops and record stores fill the ground floors now, and the lanes stay quiet enough to hear a cat before you see it. Some walls fade or get painted over, so the collection shifts from year to year and no two visits show the same set.