Yeni Cami is the pile of grey domes wedged between the Galata Bridge and the Eminönü ferry piers, and almost everyone crossing to the old city meets it first. The domes climb in stages toward two slim minarets. Inside, the roar of the quay falls away and light drops through tiers of windows onto İznik tiles and a wide carpeted floor. Two queen mothers built it, generations apart: Safiye Sultan laid the foundations in this crowded harbour quarter in 1597, and Turhan Hatice saw it finished in the 1660s.
Outside, the broad steps belong to pigeons and the people who scatter seed for them, and the arcade beside the mosque is the Spice Bazaar, built to pay the mosque's upkeep from its rents. This is a working mosque, so shoes come off, the prayer times set the rhythm, and it fills at midday on Friday. Step back onto the bridge and the whole grey mass reads as one silhouette against the old city.