Senhora do Monte sits above Graça and there is nothing to it: a stone parapet, a few umbrella pines, a small chapel and a very long view. The chapel gives it the name — Our Lady of the Mount — and the present building replaced one destroyed in 1755, on a spot venerated by tradition since the twelfth century. What you get from the wall is the castle floating on its own hill in the middle distance, the whole tiled centre spread out beyond it, and the Tagus with the bridge closing the far side.
The terrace looks south over the castle and river and round to the north-west, which is where the sun goes down. In the last hour a quiet crowd assembles along the parapet with cans and a guitar, mostly local, and the castle turns gold, then pink, then a dark outline as the lights come up underneath it. Getting here means a steep walk up from Graça, and that walk keeps the numbers down, so people tend to sit for an hour rather than take a photograph and move on. There is no kiosk up here and nothing is sold.