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Karlskirche

Karlskirche

Vienna City Guide
Church · Wieden (4th)Vienna, Austria

Charles VI vowed a church while plague was killing Vienna in 1713, and Fischer von Erlach built him something no city had seen: a Greek temple portico, a Roman oval dome in green copper, and in front of them two colossal free-standing columns copied from Trajan's in Rome, spiralling with carved reliefs. Nothing structural required the columns. They were there to claim that this emperor's authority came down from ancient Rome, and they flattered him twice over, because the church is dedicated to Saint Karl Borromäus and the emperor paying for it was Karl VI. Every part of the design is borrowed from somewhere else, but no other church puts those parts together. A long shallow pool laid across the square in front reflects the whole facade, with a large modern sculpture set in the middle of the water as a deliberate counterweight. Inside, everything pulls upward into the cupola, frescoed by Johann Michael Rottmayr with the patron saint rising through cloud. For twenty years a lift left over from restoration carried visitors up into the dome to see the brushwork at arm's length; it was dismantled in 2022, and the fresco is once again something you look at from the floor of the church, the way it was painted to be seen.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The columns tell one man's life — the spiral reliefs winding up them are scenes from Charles Borromeo, the archbishop the church is dedicated to, and they read from the bottom up.
  • Read the pediment before you go in — the relief over the entrance carries the cardinal virtues with the patron at its apex, which is the argument the two columns then make at length.
  • Dusk doubles it — floodlights come on and the whole front, columns and dome included, appears again upside down in the reflecting pool across the square.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Look up until your neck complains

    Look up until your neck complains

    Stand directly under the centre of the cupola and stay there. Rottmayr's fresco is arranged to be read from exactly this point, with the figures foreshortened so they resolve only from below, and the oval of the dome does the rest. It is the view the painter actually designed for.

  2. 2

    Look at it from the far end of the pool

    Look at it from the far end of the pool

    Stand at the opposite side of the water on Karlsplatz. The reflecting pool was laid to give the church a second version of itself, and from that distance the portico, the two columns and the dome resolve into the single strange composition they were designed as.

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