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MuseumsQuartier

MuseumsQuartier

Vienna City Guide
Museum · Museumsplatz (7th)Vienna, Austria

The MuseumsQuartier occupies the Habsburgs' imperial stables — a long Baroque range by Fischer von Erlach built for the court's horses and carriages, which by the late twentieth century was a trade-fair hall nobody knew what to do with. The conversion opened in 2001 after fifteen years of public argument, most of it about how tall the new buildings could be. Two went up behind the historic front: the Leopold Museum in white shell limestone, holding the largest collection of Egon Schiele anywhere alongside Klimt, and MUMOK in dark grey basalt, Austria's museum of modern and contemporary art. Around them are an exhibition hall, an architecture centre, a children's museum and a dance house. The part locals use is the courtyard. It is furnished with the Enzis — chunky modular loungers repainted a new colour once a year — and functions as a public living room: students, office workers and families sit out on them for hours with a coffee or a beer. In summer the evenings fill and the programme in the courtyard changes with the season.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Schiele is the reason for the white building — the Leopold's holding of him is unmatched, and it is a harder and stranger body of work than the Klimt on the posters.
  • The height argument is visible — the two modern blocks were cut down repeatedly during planning so they would not show above the Baroque roofline from the Ring.
  • The courtyards never close — they are public ground and stay open around the clock, so the place goes on working as a square long after the museums have shut.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Sit on an Enzi and stay put

    Sit on an Enzi and stay put

    Take a coffee or a beer out into the main courtyard and claim a lounger. Nobody checks anything and nobody moves you along. On a warm evening the courtyard fills with several hundred people doing precisely this, which is the closest thing Vienna has to a free outdoor living room.

  2. 2

    Give the Schiele rooms an hour

    Give the Schiele rooms an hour

    The Leopold's Schiele rooms are uncomfortable work — thin, twisted bodies, unsparing self-portraits, painted by a man who died at twenty-eight. It is a very different experience from the Klimt that shares the building, and most visitors give it half the time it needs.

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