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Plague Column (Pestsaule)

Plague Column (Pestsaule)

Vienna City Guide
Landmark · Innere Stadt (1st)AustriaVienna,Austria

A twenty-one-metre heap of carved stone clouds on Vienna's Graben, an emperor kneeling below while Faith drives the plague off the edge.

The Plague Column on the Graben is a scene rather than a monument. Leopold I kneels near the bottom in prayer, and above him Paul Strudel carved Faith driving an old woman, the plague itself, off the edge into nothing. The whole thing stands twenty-one metres, twenty centimetres taller than the high altar of St Stephen's, and the clouds are cut deeply enough to throw their own shadows. In flat midday sun the forms merge into a pale mass; come late in the afternoon and they separate, and the figures step forward. Leopold vowed the monument during the plague of 1679, and the first version raised here, a year later, was made of wood. Turning that into stone took another thirteen years and three pairs of hands, and the finished column was consecrated in October 1693. A sculptor began the marble, an architect reworked the base and its reliefs, and the court theatre designer supplied the cloud shape.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Find the emperor before you find the saints — Leopold I kneels on the monument he paid for, on a shopping street: a particular idea of how a ruler should be seen.
  • Step back into a shop doorway to fit it in — The Graben is wide but the column is over twenty metres tall, and from close underneath you get only clouds and no scene at all.
  • Early morning is the only quiet hour — This is the middle of the busiest shopping street in the country, and from mid-morning there are people, buskers and market stalls at the base all day.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk a slow circle and watch the story turn

    Walk a slow circle and watch the story turn

    Start at the emperor's side and walk right round the base once, keeping your eyes at the level of the figures. The scene is not designed to be read from one front. Faith and the plague appear, the reliefs come round, and the clouds keep reordering themselves, which is the whole reason it was built in the round.

  2. 2

    Find the plague's face

    Find the plague's face

    Look for the old woman at the upper part of the group, twisting as she falls. She is the epidemic given a body, and she is being driven out rather than defeated in battle. It takes a minute to locate her among the clouds, and the sculpture makes a different kind of sense afterwards.

  3. 3

    Read the six reliefs cut into the base

    Read the six reliefs cut into the base

    Six reliefs are cut into the socle below the clouds: Creation, the plague, Passover, the Last Supper, the Flood and Pentecost. They sit low down, and most people walk past them to look up. Find the plague panel and you have the monument's argument in one frame, Vienna's epidemic set among biblical calamities rather than treated as local misfortune.

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