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Stadtpark

Stadtpark

Vienna City Guide
Park · Parkring (1st)Vienna, Austria

The Stadtpark opened in 1862 as the first large municipal park on the new Ringstrasse, on ground freed by the demolition of the walls. It was designed in the loose English manner — curving paths, open lawns, specimen trees — as a deliberate contrast to Baroque geometry. The little River Wien runs through the middle of it, and where it does, Friedrich Ohmann and Josef Hackhofer dressed the flood works in white stone pavilions and balustrades, so that a piece of civil engineering became the prettiest thing in the park. The park is also full of monuments to Viennese composers and artists. A seated Schubert and busts of Bruckner and Lehár stand among the trees, but the one almost every visitor stops to photograph is the monument to Johann Strauss the younger. It is gilded, and shows him playing his violin under a white marble arch; it is usually called the most photographed statue in the city. By day the park works as a lunch break for the offices on the Ring, and at the edge stands the Kursalon, a hall built for spa concerts where ensembles still play Strauss and Mozart programmes nightly for visitors.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Late afternoon sets the gilding alight — the Strauss monument faces so that low sun hits the gold directly, which is when the photograph everyone takes actually works.
  • It is an office lunch break — between noon and two the lawns fill with people from the Ring buildings, which is the park doing the job it was built for.
  • Not all of them are composers — three of the figures standing among the trees are nineteenth-century painters, Makart, Canon and Schindler, not musicians at all.
  • The far bank is a different park — the river splits the ground in two, and the southern half, laid out in 1863 as the Kinderpark, is still playground and sports ground rather than promenade.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Find the river under the decoration

    Find the river under the decoration

    Walk to the middle of the park where the Wien crosses it. What looks like an ornamental terrace with pavilions and stone balustrades is the top of a flood channel, and standing on the bridge you can see the water running in its engineered bed underneath the design.

  2. 2

    Come at the end of the afternoon

    Come at the end of the afternoon

    The low sun comes in along the Ring and catches the gilded Strauss directly, which is the only time the statue looks the way it does in photographs. It is also when the office crowd has gone and the park belongs to prams, dogs and pensioners on the benches.

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