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Aladağlar

Aladağlar

PeaksTürkiyeNiğde,Türkiye

Turkey's climbing country: forty bare limestone summits above 3,500 metres in the Taurus, with high lakes that fill in July and vanish by September.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

High summer is the full range: all routes run, from the Yedigöller crossing to the 350-plus bolted lines in Kazıklıali canyon and the north face of Demirkazık. Skies stay dry and near-rainless, though the Seven Lakes shrink to cracked mud by September.



Year-round The limestone walls, the karst gorges and the wild goats are here all year; the lakes, the birds and the snow are not.

Aladağlar is the climbing country of Türkiye, forty bare limestone summits above 3,500 metres in the central Taurus, in Niğde province, the crimson mountains, with high lakes on a plateau that fill in July and vanish by September, a canyon of bolted routes and a wall that nobody climbed until 1972, and it is trekked up the Emli valley, climbed on Demirkazık and watched at dawn, when the grey walls flush rust-red. The classic way in runs up the Emli valley through Taurus fir and juniper with the limestone closing in and the pinnacle of Parmakkaya on the skyline, to the Yedigöller plateau at 3,100 metres, where the meltwater refills the ice-carved hollows and the Seven Lakes briefly exist, only Büyükgöl left by late summer and the other six dry cracked mud; the north face of Demirkazık, the iron stake, at 3,756 metres, waited until an Australian and a New Zealander picked a line up it, and for half a century the maps put the high point of the range on it until a retired colonel reading the old survey sheets in 2007 showed that Kızılkaya was higher. At dawn and dusk the low sun rakes along the ridges and the grey limestone flushes copper and rust while the valley floors stay black. The Kazıklıali canyon cuts two kilometres into the massif with walls of conglomerate 80 to 90 metres high, pockets, single-finger holds and overhangs carrying more than 350 bolted routes, and the snowmelt that sinks into the limestone surfaces again at Kapuzbaşı on the far side of the range, seven spouts leaving one cliff face side by side. Birders leave the village of Çukurbağ at four in the morning for the Arpalık pastures at 2,200 metres to sit still and listen for the Caspian snowcock calling before first light from late March to early June, with the wallcreeper and the crimson-winged finch on the same slopes, and the bezoar ibex stands on the cliffs above. Aladağlar is the range Türkiye climbs, and its lakes are only there in July.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The way in is Demirkazık village, above Çamardı — Sokulupınar is the road-head camp, and a rough track climbs on from there to the Arpalık pastures by tractor or pickup.
  • The Yedigöller crossing usually clears only in late June — go earlier and the passes still hold hard snow, which means an ice axe, crampons and someone who has been up there before.
  • Fill every bottle before you go high — this is limestone, so the streams sink into the rock, and between Sokulupınar and the plateau the springs are few and easy to miss.
  • There is no marked trail up here, only cairns and open karst — hidden sinkholes, loose scree and cloud that builds fast after noon; most parties hire a Çamardı guide for the plateau.
  • Give the herding camps a wide berth — the flocks on these pastures run with big loose guard dogs, so swing out around a camp, keep walking, and let the shepherd see you coming.
  • Scan the scree at first light — the wild goats feed low and in the open early, then climb into the cliffs and are all but invisible by mid-morning.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Trek up the Emli valley to the Yedigöller lakes

    Trek up the Emli valley to the Yedigöller lakes

    The classic way in runs up the Emli valley through Taurus fir and juniper, with limestone walls closing in and the Parmakkaya pinnacle on the skyline. It ends at Sokulupınar, the camp on the grass where herding families still spend the summer under canvas. Two more days of stony gorges bring you out on the Yedigöller cirque at 3,100 metres, where you can pitch a tent by Büyükgöl, the one lake that never empties.

  2. 2

    Stand under the north face of Demirkazık

    Stand under the north face of Demirkazık

    Nobody climbed this wall until 1972, when an Australian and a New Zealander finally picked a line up it. Stand on the scree at its foot and hundreds of metres of bare limestone lean over you — still the hardest alpine routes in the country, and cold enough that the face keeps its ice into spring. The summit above was first reached in winter three years earlier, in 1969.

  3. 3

    See the grey walls turn rust-red at first light

    See the grey walls turn rust-red at first light

    At dawn, and again at dusk, low sun rakes along the ridges and the grey limestone flushes copper and rust while the valley floors stay black. The range is said to owe its name to exactly this — ala, meaning mottled, many-coloured — and it lasts only a few minutes.

  4. 4

    Climb the pocketed walls of Kazıklıali

    A canyon cuts two kilometres into the massif, and both its walls are conglomerate: 80 to 90 metres of pockets, single-finger holds and overhangs, carrying more than 350 bolted routes from gentle warm-ups to open projects. It is the biggest sport-climbing venue in the range.

  5. 5

    Wait for the snowcock above Arpalık

    Birders leave the village around four in the morning, grind up to the Arpalık pastures at 2,200 metres and then sit still and listen. This is the classic place in Turkey to find Caspian snowcock, along with wallcreeper, crimson-winged finch and Radde's accentor.

Watch

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