Amsterdam is flat and its old centre is low, so there is almost nowhere to see the shape of it from. The A'DAM Toren gives you that view, from across the water rather than from the middle of the city: a 1971 office block built for Shell on the north bank of the IJ, abandoned when the company left, and reopened as a tower of studios, bars and hotel rooms with a public deck on the roof. From up there the city resolves into its plan — the medieval core and its spires, the arcs of the canal ring behind them, the harbour cranes, and beyond it all the flat polder with wind turbines standing in it.
The crossing is part of the trip. The ferry from behind Centraal Station takes a few minutes and puts the working water in front of you — barges, harbour traffic, the white wedge of the EYE Film Museum on the bank. The deck itself is open air, with a swing at the edge billed as the highest in Europe that pushes you out over the parapet, and the whole thing works best in the half hour when the city switches its lights on.