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Museum Van Loon

Museum Van Loon

Amsterdam City Guide
Museum · Grachtengordel (Keizersgracht)NetherlandsAmsterdam,Netherlands

One Amsterdam canal plot with everything still on it: the 1671 house, its clipped formal garden, and the coach house with the carriages inside.

Museum Van Loon is one canal plot with everything still on it. You can walk its whole depth in a single line: house, then formal garden, then the coach house at the far end against the back street. Adriaan Dortsman put up the front in 1671, flat sandstone with no gable and four gods along the roofline, and the house next door is its identical twin. The first tenant was the painter Ferdinand Bol, who had trained with Rembrandt and died in these rooms in 1680. The Van Loon family arrived in 1884 and never left. Inside, the rooms were stripped and rebuilt in the French taste in 1752, with false doors added so that every wall would look symmetrical, and more than a hundred and fifty family portraits hang in them now. Walk out of the back door and the garden opens up behind the house. The box and yew are clipped to a pattern taken from a 1679 bird's-eye map of the canal belt, and a copper beech stands where the family planted it in the year they moved in. At the far end is the coach house, with the carriages still inside.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Stand on the far bank and look twice — This house and its neighbour were built as an identical pair, so the plain sandstone facade with no gable repeats side by side.
  • Everything above the ground floor is reached by the house's own staircase — There is no lift and the steps are steep and narrow, as they are in any 1670s canal house. The garden is step-free.
  • The garden reads best in the middle of the day — It lies in a deep gap between two streets of tall houses, so direct sun reaches the hedge pattern for only a few hours around noon.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk the plot from the canal to the back wall

    Walk the plot from the canal to the back wall

    Come in from the Keizersgracht, cross the ground-floor rooms and go straight out into the garden without stopping. Keep walking to the coach house at the far end, then turn around. From there you are looking at the entire depth of one canal plot in a single line, which is what the narrow front hides.

  2. 2

    Read one wall of family portraits

    Read one wall of family portraits

    Pick a single room upstairs and look only at its portraits. The same noses, jaws and hands come round again across two centuries, because these are one family painted generation after generation. Find the earliest sitter in the room and the latest, and see how far the clothes change while the faces stay recognisable.

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