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The Nine Streets (De 9 Straatjes)

The Nine Streets (De 9 Straatjes)

Amsterdam City Guide
Street · GrachtengordelAmsterdam, Netherlands

The Nine Streets are nine short lanes running east to west across the three main canals, in the middle of the ring. Each one takes about two minutes to walk, and the walk keeps repeating the same pattern: you cross a bridge, pass a block of shops, then cross the next bridge, with water closing both ends of every view. They were laid out with the canals in the seventeenth century, and the leather-working and tanning trades that first filled them left their names behind — Wolvenstraat, Hartenstraat, Reestraat, after the hides that were worked there. What keeps them interesting is a planning accident. The plots are narrow and the buildings shallow, which keeps every unit small, and most of the shops stay small and specific: one dealing only in vintage eyewear, one in cheese, one in buttons, one bookshop, a perfumer, several people selling something they make themselves. Between them sit cafés with four tables. It is the part of the centre where browsing is the activity and buying is optional, and it is busiest on a Saturday afternoon and pleasant on almost any weekday.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Zigzag rather than walk straight — the pattern only works if you cross a canal, do a block, cross the next; going along one canal instead skips the whole point.
  • The name was invented in 1996 — a handful of shopkeepers formed an association and gave the lanes one collective name to compete with the Jordaan; before that they were nine streets with nine names and nothing joining them.
  • The cafés have four tables on purpose — the buildings are too shallow for anything larger, and the format shapes what can open here.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Do all nine in one go

    Do all nine in one go

    Start at the Prinsengracht end and work east, taking each lane in turn and crossing back over the canal between them. It takes under an hour, covers about a kilometre and a half, and the repeated bridge-block-bridge rhythm is the thing you remember rather than any single shop.

  2. 2

    Stop at a four-table café

    Stop at a four-table café

    Order coffee and a slice of appeltaart — cinnamon-heavy, thick with apple, served with cream — and sit by the window. The Dutch treat this as a legitimate way to spend an hour, and in a room this small you end up in the conversation whether or not you meant to.

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