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Butterfly Valley

Butterfly Valley

CanyonsTürkiyeMuğla,Türkiye

A roadless canyon on Türkiye's Lycian coast, 350-metre walls dropping to a single pebble beach, where Jersey tiger moths gather in thousands each summer.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

Jersey tiger moths cluster motionless in the humid shade, thickest in July and August. The sea is warm, about 24°C in June and 28°C by August, and hourly boats cross from Ölüdeniz. The beach camp is full, some 200 people ashore a day in midsummer.



Year-round The gorge, its 350-metre walls and the pebble cove are here year-round, but the boats and the beach camp run only spring to autumn.

Butterfly Valley is a roadless canyon on the Lycian coast of Türkiye, in Muğla province south of Ölüdeniz, walls of 350 metres dropping to a single beach of pebbles at the mouth, where Jersey tiger moths gather in their thousands in the damp shade of the gorge each summer, and it is reached by boat from Ölüdeniz in twenty minutes or by a rope-assisted path down the cliff from the village of Faralya. The valley is the mouth of a stream off Babadağ, the mountain of the paragliders, and its beach is a cove of coarse pebbles where the cliffs cut the wind and the sea sits flat and clear, walled on three sides; the streambed leads inland from the beach under figs, oleander and plane trees until the walls rear up and the sky is a strip overhead, to two waterfalls at the canyon's head that run strongest in spring and thin to a thread by late summer, and in the shade along the stream the moths sit completely still, since the insect that made the valley famous flies by day and at rest looks like a scrap of striped bark, showing the red of its hindwings only when it flies, a warning that it is not to be eaten. The moths gather from late June to early September, thickest in July and August, clustered motionless on the shaded rock and leaves. The valley was a commune of tents and wooden huts for decades, run by the people who kept the beach free of building, and it is a protected site now with camping and a few bungalows, day boats arriving mid-morning and leaving mid-afternoon, so that the evening belongs to the campers and the goats on the cliffs. Fethiye is not the only valley built on this moth, since Rhodes has its own Petaloudes, and the Lycian Way passes above on its way along the coast. Butterfly Valley is a slot in the cliffs with a beach at the bottom, and the moths hold their meeting in its shade.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The descent from Faralya is steep, rope-assisted and loose underfoot — it wants proper shoes and a head for scrambling, and the same shoes get you up the wet rock to the upper fall.
  • The pool at the head of the valley sits in the walls' shade — it stays cold when the cove below is warm, and it is where the streambed walk finishes.
  • The day boats empty the beach by late afternoon — stay until the last one leaves and the cove turns quiet, with the cliffs already deep in shadow.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Arrive by boat from Ölüdeniz

    Arrive by boat from Ölüdeniz

    Reach this roadless cove by boat from Ölüdeniz, a crossing of about twenty minutes. From out at sea the cove stays hidden, and the pebble beach between the canyon's sheer walls only comes into view once the boat turns in towards the shore.

  2. 2

    Walk the streambed into the narrowing gorge

    Walk the streambed into the narrowing gorge

    Leave the beach and follow the creek inland under figs, oleander and plane trees, until the walls rear up and the sky is a strip overhead. Half an hour on stones and roots reaches the lower falls. The last section leaves the streambed and goes up wet, polished rock on fixed ropes to a cold, shaded pool.

  3. 3

    Find the tiger moths clustered in the shade

    Find the tiger moths clustered in the shade

    The insect that made this valley famous is a moth that flies by day, and it spends most of its time sitting completely still. Look along shaded rock and the undersides of leaves near the water, where Jersey tigers pack together in motionless, striped clusters, then catch the flash of scarlet as one of them shifts its wings.

  4. 4

    Swim beneath the 350-metre walls

    Swim beneath the 350-metre walls

    Wade in from the coarse pebbles of the cove, where the cliffs cut the wind and the sea sits flat and clear. Swim out far enough to turn around and the canyon opens above you — a green cleft splitting the whole face of the mountain.

Watch

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