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Butterfly Valley

Butterfly Valley

CanyonsMuğla, Türkiye
August·Peaking now

Jun–Sep

Jersey tiger moths cluster motionless in the humid shade, thickest in July and August; the sea warm at about 24°C in June and 28°C by August, hourly boats cross from Ölüdeniz, and the beach camp is full, some 200 people ashore a day in midsummer.



Year-round The gorge, its 350-metre walls and the pebble cove are here year-round, but the boats and the beach camp run only spring to autumn.

Butterfly Valley is named after a moth. The insect that made this gorge famous is the Jersey tiger, Euplagia quadripunctaria — a day-flying moth with cream-striped forewings and scarlet, black-spotted hindwings, and the only lepidopteran the European Union lists as a priority species for protection. Through July and August it gathers here in thousands, clustering on damp leaves and shaded rock along the stream, where running water keeps the air humid and walls of some 350 metres keep the wind out. More than eighty butterfly species have been recorded alongside it. The canyon cuts about four kilometres back into the seaward flank of Babadağ, the 1,975-metre mountain behind Ölüdeniz, and meets the sea at a single pebble beach with no road to it. In 1995 Turkey declared the valley a first-degree protected site, which bans permanent building of any kind. Almost everyone arrives by boat, a crossing of about twenty minutes from Ölüdeniz. From the pebble beach a path follows the streambed inland under figs, oleander and plane trees, and the air turns cool and green as the walls close in; in half an hour it reaches two waterfalls dropping off the rock face. The water runs hardest in spring, when rain and the melt off Babadağ push it through, and thins to a thread by late summer. The other way in is the descent from Faralya, the village on the plateau above — a steep, rope-assisted scramble that catches out anyone who takes it lightly. Because nothing permanent may be built here, the camp on the beach is tents, wooden bungalows and treehouses, and it runs only from spring to autumn; in midsummer some two hundred people a day come ashore.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Look for the tiger moths at rest, not in flight — they sit in dense, motionless clusters on shaded rock and the undersides of leaves, thickest along the last stretch of the waterfall path.
  • Take the boat unless you are a confident scrambler — the descent from Faralya is steep and rope-assisted on loose ground, and proper shoes are the bare minimum for it.
  • Wear something you can climb in — the final pull towards the upper fall goes up wet, polished rock on fixed ropes, and beach sandals will not hold on it.
  • The day boats empty the beach by late afternoon — stay until the last one leaves and the cove turns quiet, with the cliffs already deep in shadow.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Arrive by boat from Ölüdeniz

    Arrive by boat from Ölüdeniz

    Reach this roadless cove by boat from Ölüdeniz, a crossing of about twenty minutes. From out at sea the cove stays hidden, and the pebble beach between the canyon's sheer walls only comes into view once the boat turns in towards the shore.

  2. 2

    Walk the streambed into the narrowing gorge

    Walk the streambed into the narrowing gorge

    Leave the beach and follow the creek inland, under figs, oleander and plane trees. The walls rear up on both sides until the sky is a strip overhead and the sound of the sea dies behind you; half an hour of easy walking on stones and roots takes you to the foot of the falls.

  3. 3

    Find the tiger moths clustered in the shade

    Find the tiger moths clustered in the shade

    The insect that made this valley famous is a moth that flies by day, and it spends most of its time sitting completely still. Look along shaded rock and the undersides of leaves near the water, where Jersey tigers pack together in motionless, striped clusters, then catch the flash of scarlet as one of them shifts its wings.

  4. 4

    Climb the ropes to the upper waterfall

    Climb the ropes to the upper waterfall

    The last section of the trail leaves the streambed and goes up wet, polished rock, with fixed ropes to haul on. At the top, water drops off the cliff into a cold, shaded pool — the deepest point into the canyon that most visitors reach.

  5. 5

    Swim beneath the 350-metre walls

    Swim beneath the 350-metre walls

    Wade in from the coarse pebbles of the cove, where the cliffs cut the wind and the sea sits flat and clear. Swim out far enough to turn around and the canyon opens above you — a green cleft splitting the whole face of the mountain.

Watch

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