Kravica is a horseshoe of roughly twenty separate cascades, fanning about 120 metres wide across a curved wall of pale rock. The drop is 25 to 28 metres, so the falls are broad rather than tall, and the whole amphitheatre opens in front of you at once. The wall they pour over is alive: the Trebižat River runs thick with dissolved lime, and where it spills over moss and reeds the calcium hardens into tufa. The barrier keeps building higher and wider year after year. This is the best-known waterfall in Bosnia and Herzegovina, in the dry karst country near Ljubuški, about 40 kilometres south of Mostar. The flow swings hard with the seasons, loudest in spring and calmer through summer, which makes Kravica as much a swimming hole as a spectacle.
Walk down to the water and cool mist drifts off the rock, the roar swallows the birdsong, and the pool spreads out in green and turquoise beneath the falls. In the warm months the calmer flow makes this one of the region's favourite places to swim. Small boats and kayaks go right to the foot of the cascades. Shaded terraces under fig and willow trees line the pool, and the light on the water shifts all afternoon. An old stone mill still stands at the river's edge, from the days when this power turned grindstones rather than drawing visitors. Kravica is the most visited natural site in the region, crowded with day-trippers from Mostar and Međugorje through July and August, and quiet by early autumn.